Palinuro is one of those places we are always happy to return to, and every time the Natural Arch has the same effect on us: a gateway of rock open to the sea, at the mouth of a river. In this article we tell you about the promontory, the caves and the Arch beach, with some practical tips to enjoy them without surprises.
The cape named after a sailor
Palinuro is a hamlet of Centola, on the southern coast of the Cilento. Its name comes from Virgil’s Aeneid: Palinurus was the helmsman of Aeneas, who fell into the sea during Aeneas’s voyage to Italy. In the poem he is promised that a place will bear his name forever, and that place is the promontory of Capo Palinuro, which stretches out into the Tyrrhenian Sea with its sheer cliffs.
We like to start the day at the harbour, looking up at the cape from below. The village is small and compact, but the real show is all around it, among coves, rocks and sea caves.
The sea caves of Capo Palinuro
The best way to get to know the promontory is from the sea. Boat trips leave from the harbour, sail around the cape and enter the caves. The most famous is the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto), where the light filtering up from under the water makes the blue glow in a surprising way. Along the coast you also come across the Grotta del Sangue (Blood Cave) and the Grotta dei Monaci (Monks’ Cave), each with its own colours and shapes.
We recommend going out early in the morning, when the sea is calmer and the light enters the caves better. The boat trip is also the easiest way to see the Natural Arch from a different perspective.
The Natural Arch at the mouth of the Mingardo
About 3–4 kilometres south of the centre of Palinuro, the Mingardo river flows into the sea next to a large rock arch carved by the sea and the wind. This is the Arco Naturale (Natural Arch), the symbol of this coast. Beneath and beside the arch lies a beach of golden sand, while further south stretches the wide Mingardo beach.
Arriving here at sunset, when the rock turns orange, is one of the things we will never forget about our trips to the Cilento. The arch is fragile, and you realise it when you look at it up close: it is rock that has been exposed to storm surges for centuries.
Works, closures and what to know before you go
Precisely to protect the arch, in November 2022 work began on the consolidation and conservative restoration of the rock formation, with funding of over 3.5 million euros and cooperation between the Region, the National Park, the Municipality of Centola and the Southern Apennines District Authority. After a period of closure, the Arch beach has been reopened to swimmers.
But be careful: the small beach under the arch and the areas at the foot of the cliff may be off-limits because of the risk of rockfalls, and other coves in the area, such as Buondormire, have also been closed recently. Before you spread out your towel, check the signs and the municipal ordinances, and always respect the fences.
Getting there and when to go
By car you reach Palinuro by driving down the Cilentana highway and then along the coast road; for the Natural Arch, follow the road towards the mouth of the Mingardo, with a short walk from the car parks. By train, the nearest station is Centola-Palinuro-Marina di Camerota, from where you need local connections to reach the sea. The sea is at its best between late spring and early autumn: we prefer June and September, when the water is crystal clear and it is far less crowded than in July and August. If you choose a boat trip, check times and tickets before you set off.
Nearby
A little further south, in the territory of Camerota, the Bay of Infreschi awaits you, reachable only on foot or by sea. Heading north along the coast, in Pisciotta they still fish for menaica anchovies, and in Ascea you can visit the Archaeological Park of Velia. To choose your other seaside stops, read the most beautiful beaches in the province of Salerno and our guide Cilento: what to do and what to see.
Top photo (Centola): Geofix, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
Read also: The Path of the Gods
