You smell Christmas in Campania before you see it: warm honey, toasted almonds, fried treats coming out of the kitchens. We wait for December to return to the alleys of Naples and the lights of Salerno, and every year we discover something new. Here is how we suggest you spend the holidays, between nativity scenes, light installations and sweets.
Naples and the art of the nativity scene
In Naples the nativity scene is not just a decoration: it is an artistic tradition that reached its peak in the eighteenth century, when noble families and the Bourbon court competed to stage ever richer scenes. Alongside the Nativity appear shepherd figurines, taverns, merchants and common folk: the whole city of the time.
The must-see stop is San Gregorio Armeno, the street of the figurine workshops, which is packed in December: read San Gregorio Armeno, the street of nativity scenes and The Neapolitan nativity scene. To see the historic masterpieces, head up to the Certosa di San Martino, home to the great Cuciniello nativity scene (Castel Sant'Elmo and the Certosa di San Martino). The Royal Palace of Caserta also holds a Bourbon-era court nativity scene: you will find it among the rooms described in The Royal Apartments of the Royal Palace of Caserta.
Luci d'Artista in Salerno
For years now, from November to the end of January, Salerno has been transformed by the Luci d'Artista: light installations designed by artists, with a different theme each year, lining the evening stroll between the old town and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. We recommend going on a weekday evening, to enjoy them without too many crowds. All our tips are in Luci d'Artista in Salerno and in our guide to what to do in Salerno.
While you are there, visit the cathedral (Salerno Cathedral) and the old town: for two full days, see our two-day Salerno itinerary.
Festive sweets
In Campania, Christmas is above all a matter of sweets. Struffoli, little balls of fried dough coated in honey, colourful sprinkles and candied fruit, are the symbol of the holidays: the recipe is in Struffoli. Then there are roccocò, hard rings of almonds and spices that are made as early as 8 December (Roccocò (sweets)), chocolate-glazed mostaccioli and S-shaped susamielli.
In the Sannio, Christmas is never without torrone nougat, which we describe in Torrone of Benevento and in our article on the torrone of San Marco dei Cavoti, while on the Amalfi Coast people toast with citrus liqueurs.
The Christmas Eve table
In Naples, dinner on 24 December is traditionally meatless: fish, fried food, capitone eel and spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams), served with insalata di rinforzo, a salad of cauliflower, olives, papaccelle peppers and anchovies. You will find the recipe in our article on spaghetti alle vongole and other dishes in our guide to typical Neapolitan dishes. For the mozzarella and dairy products of Christmas lunch, see Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP.
Getting there and when to go
Naples and Salerno are connected by train in just over half an hour on high-speed services and in about an hour on regional trains: you can stay in one city and visit the other on a day trip. The best period runs from 8 December, when nativity scenes and trees are traditionally set up, to Epiphany. At weekends central Naples is very crowded: get around on foot or by metro. Check the opening hours of museums and churches on their official websites before you set off.
Nearby
For more traditions, read our articles on famous Neapolitan traditions and on traditions in Salerno. If you would like to combine the holidays with a few days of relaxation, take a look at Winter in Campania: snow at Laceno and thermal spas, and to discover the city start from Naples and its surroundings.
Top photo (Naples): This Photo was taken by Wolfgang Moroder. Feel free to use my photos, but please mention me as the author and send me a message. This image is not in the public domain. Please respect the copyright protection. It may only be used according to the rules mentioned here. This specifically excludes use in social media, if applicable terms of the licenses listed here not appropriate. Please do not upload an updated image here without consultation with the Author. The author would like to make corrections only at his own source. This ensures that the changes are preserved.Please if you think that any changes should be required, please inform the author.Otherwise you can upload a new image with a new name. Please use one of the templates derivative or extract., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
Read also: The Immaculate Conception long weekend in Campania: what to do and see
