For us, Christmas in Campania begins when the first tray of roccocò appears on the table. They are hard, fragrant with spices and citrus, and need to be tackled with a little patience: but that is exactly what we love about them. Here is what they are and how best to enjoy them.
A ring-shaped biscuit
Roccocò is a dry Christmas biscuit shaped like a flattened ring, dark brown in colour, with a shiny, uneven surface thanks to the almonds poking out of the dough. According to the fact sheet of the Campania Region, the name may recall the idea of an artificial rock, because of its very hard texture and the almost marbled look given by the almonds.
It is included in Campania's list of traditional agri-food products (PAT), among the pastries and sweets. The production area is the whole region: from Advent to the end of the holidays you will find it on almost every table, in Naples as in the villages of the provinces.
The ingredients
What makes roccocò unmistakable is its aroma. Besides flour and sugar, the dough contains:
- toasted almonds, some chopped and some whole;
- spices: white pepper, cloves and cinnamon;
- candied citrus peel and grated orange zest;
- a pinch of baker's ammonia.
How they are made
Everything is worked on a large surface, with the flour arranged in a well and the other ingredients in the centre. The dough needs long kneading, adding water a little at a time until it reaches the right consistency. Then small rings are shaped, brushed with egg to make them shiny and baked for a few minutes. The result is the compact biscuit we all know.
How to eat them
The hardness of roccocò is legendary, and many families joke about the teeth put to the test. The traditional advice, which we gladly follow, is to enjoy them at the end of a meal with a fortified wine or a dessert wine, dipping them to soften them. Left for a few days in a tin with a piece of orange peel, they become a little softer without losing their aroma.
On the Christmas tray roccocò are in good company: don't miss our page on Struffoli and our article Christmas in Campania: nativity scenes, festive lights and sweets.
Where to taste them and nearby
During the festive season you will find them in every pastry shop in Naples and the region. We suggest combining your purchase with a stroll along San Gregorio Armeno, the street of nativity scenes, among figurines and workshops. For another festive sweet, read our page on Torrone of Benevento; for all the region's protected products there is our guide Campania's DOP and IGP products, and for the city Naples and its surroundings.
Sources: Campania Region, PAT fact sheet "Roccocò"; Campania Region, PAT list of sweets and pastries.
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