Anyone who thinks of Campania only as a seaside destination is in for a surprise: in winter snow falls on the mountains of Irpinia, and just a few hours away the warm waters of the thermal spas are ready to warm you up. We have combined the two in a four-day itinerary, perfect for anyone looking for a different kind of winter.
Days 1 and 2: the snow of Laceno
Our winter begins at Bagnoli Irpino, on the Laceno plateau, at about 1,050 metres above sea level, surrounded by the Picentini Mountains. It is Campania's main ski resort: the slopes climb Monte Rajamagra and there is also a cross-country skiing loop with views that, on clear days, reach as far as the Gulf of Salerno. Read Lake Laceno and its plateau.
On the second day, if you don't ski, we suggest a snowshoe walk in the beech woods or a loop around the lake. Then head down to the village for its old centre and a dish with black truffle, Bagnoli Irpino's prized speciality. To warm up at the end of the day there is truffle liqueur.
Day 3: the spas of Contursi
From Laceno you descend towards the Sele valley to Contursi Terme, where warm thermal waters have flowed for centuries. Here an open-air hot bath while it is cold outside is a small luxury we recommend you treat yourself to: you will find everything in our guide to the spas of Campania. In the afternoon, nature lovers can visit the nearby Persano WWF Oasis.
Day 4: Telese or Agnano
For the last day you have two options. If you are heading north, stop at Telese Terme, in the Sannio, with its sulphurous waters and Lake Telese: read The spas of Telese. If instead you are returning to Naples, the Agnano spas (The spas of Agnano) are right in the city, in an ancient crater of the Campi Flegrei, where the Romans had already built their baths.
For those with more time, the spa island par excellence is still Ischia: many establishments close in winter, but some stay open all year round (The spas and thermal parks of Ischia). The full overview is in The spas of Campania.
Campania's other snowy places
Laceno is not the only place to find snow. On the Matese massif, at Cusano Mutri, there is the small resort of Bocca della Selva, suitable for families, while Lake Matese offers beautiful landscapes in winter, along with the traditions of the Matese villages. The Sanctuary of Montevergine, at Mercogliano, is also often dusted with snow: we describe it in The Sanctuary of Montevergine. For other mountain destinations, there is our guide to mountain tourism in Campania, with peaks, trails and snow.
What to eat in winter
In the mountains the cooking gets hearty: pulse soups, homemade pasta, cured meats and aged cheeses. We recommend trying the dishes of Avellino, especially fusilli avellinesi, with a glass of Taurasi DOCG wine.
Getting there and when to go
Laceno can be reached by car from Avellino or Salerno in just over an hour; in winter carry snow chains or fit winter tyres, and check the weather before heading up. The snow season usually runs from December to March, but it depends heavily on snowfall: find out whether the lifts are open before you set off. For the spas too, check opening hours, seasonal openings and tickets on the official websites.
Nearby
If you go in December, combine the snow with the festive season with Christmas in Campania: nativity scenes, festive lights and sweets. To get to know the area better, read Avellino and its surroundings and our article on spa tourism in Campania, Ischia and the other spas.
Top photo (Bagnoli Irpino): Lukewill, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
