Every city has a hidden side, and Avellino's surprised us. Among crypts, vanished statues, fountains with underground channels and, just outside the city, valleys where the earth breathes gas and castles haunted by ghosts, we have gathered the places that gave us goosebumps, or at least made us a little more curious.
The crypt of the cathedral
Our route began on the Collina della Terra, the oldest part of the city, where the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta stands. The façade dates from the nineteenth century, but you only have to go down into the crypt, known as the crypt of the Addolorata, to leave the noise of the city behind. It is one of the oldest parts of the complex, and bishops were once buried here.
We paused for a few minutes in silence: the low light and the vaults create an intimate atmosphere, very different from the church above. Before you leave, go up to see the chapel of San Modestino, the city's patron saint.
The Fountain of Bellerophon and the stolen statue
The Fountain of Bellerophon, which locals also call the "Tre Cannoli" (Three Spouts) fountain, was built in 1669 to a design by Cosimo Fanzago at the behest of the Caracciolo princes. The central niche held a sculpture of the hero Bellerophon slaying the Chimera: after the 1980 earthquake it was stolen and never returned to its place.
The two large side niches, which once held fine statues, are empty today too. The mystery continues beneath our feet: behind the fountain runs a system of underground channels that carried the water. Looking at it, we wondered more than once what became of those pieces.
The "child king" and the princes' hunting lodge
Not far away, in Piazza Amendola, there is a monument that at first sight seems almost ironic: the Obelisk of Charles II of Habsburg, from 1668, topped by a small bronze statue of a child sovereign. Locals call it "Carlucciello", and its story is told in The Obelisk of Charles II and Palazzo De Conciliis.
Along Corso Umberto I, on the other hand, the Casina del Principe is worth a stop; it was built at the end of the sixteenth century as a hunting lodge for the Caracciolo family and the monumental entrance to their park. After the abolition of feudalism it became an inn; restored by the municipality, it now hosts exhibitions and cultural events.
Montevergine and the Mamma Schiavona
Leaving the city, the first place we recommend is the Sanctuary of Montevergine, on Monte Partenio, above Mercogliano. Here people venerate the icon of the Madonna known as "Mamma Schiavona", at the centre of an ancient popular devotion.
Every year, for Candlemas on 2 February, the "juta" is renewed: the pilgrimage that climbs to the sanctuary amid songs and tammurriata dances, a tradition that made us realise how deeply this place is felt across Campania. We tell you the rest in The Sanctuary of Montevergine.
The Mefite and the ghost of Rocca San Felice
Perhaps the most unsettling place in all of Irpinia is the Valle d'Ansanto, where the earth bubbles and gives off gas. In antiquity it was sacred to the goddess Mefite, and Virgil described it as an entrance to the Underworld. Always keep your distance from the pool: the gases are genuinely dangerous. Find out more in The Valle d'Ansanto and the Mefite.
Above the valley towers the village of Rocca San Felice, with the remains of its Lombard castle. A local legend says that on full-moon nights the ghost of Margaret of Austria, wife of Henry VII of Swabia, wanders among the ruins, still searching for her husband. We didn't see her, but the view at sunset is worth the trip on its own.
How to get there and when to go
The places in the city can be visited on foot in half a day. For Montevergine you can drive or take the funicular from Mercogliano; for the Valle d'Ansanto and Rocca San Felice you need a car, heading towards Alta Irpinia. Autumn, with its first mists, is the season that in our view makes these places most evocative. Check opening times and tickets on the official website before you set off.
In the surroundings
For a complete picture of the province read Avellino and its surroundings. If you prefer a more classic route in the city, follow What to visit in Avellino; if you are looking for more places out of town, here is 5 must-see places in Avellino. And to discover another tower with an extraordinary view, there is The Tower of Summonte.
Top photo (Avellino): unknown author, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
