When people ask us what not to miss in the province of Avellino, we always give the same answer: get out of the city. Irpinia is a land of mountains, abbeys and unexpected landscapes, and we have chosen five places that, each in its own way, left their mark on us.
1. The Sanctuary of Montevergine
The first place on the list could only be the Sanctuary of Montevergine, at about 1,270 metres on Monte Partenio, near Mercogliano. It was founded in the early 12th century by Saint William of Vercelli, and the first church was consecrated in 1126. Today, next to the old basilica, stands the new one, inaugurated in 1961.
The heart of the sanctuary is the icon of the Madonna, painted on wood and venerated under the popular name of "Mamma Schiavona". You can go up by car, by funicular from Mercogliano, or on foot along the Sentiero del Pellegrino (Pilgrim's Path) that starts from Ospedaletto d'Alpinolo: we found it tiring but beautiful. Find out more in The Sanctuary of Montevergine.
2. The Abbey of Goleto
In Sant'Angelo dei Lombardi lies one of the most evocative places in Irpinia: the Abbey of Goleto, founded around 1133, again by William of Vercelli, who died here in 1142. For centuries it was home to a community of nuns led by abbesses.
We were struck by the Torre Febronia, a massive defensive tower from 1152 built with marble blocks salvaged from a Roman mausoleum, and by the eighteenth-century church designed by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro between 1733 and 1740. Two cloisters and two superimposed Romanesque churches complete a complex best explored slowly, in silence. We tell you about it in The Abbey of Goleto.
3. Lake Laceno
For a day in nature we recommend Lake Laceno, in the municipality of Bagnoli Irpino, at about 1,050 metres in the Picentini Mountains, beneath Monte Cervialto. It is a karst lake: in winter and spring it fills the basin, while in summer it can shrink until it leaves a meadow dotted with springs.
We explored it on foot, but around the plateau you can also cycle, go horse riding and, in winter, ski. Not far away are the Grotte del Caliendo, where the lake's waters vanish underground. Also read Lake Laceno and its plateau.
4. The Valle d'Ansanto and the Mefite
The strangest place on the list is the Valle d'Ansanto, near Rocca San Felice. Here, in a small bubbling pool, the ground constantly gives off carbon dioxide and sulphurous gases: the landscape is grey, almost lunar, and the smell carries a long way.
In antiquity the place was sacred to the goddess Mefite, and Virgil described it as one of the gates of the Underworld. An important piece of advice: the gases are dangerous, so always stay well away from the pool and don't go down into the lower areas. The whole story is in The Valle d'Ansanto and the Mefite.
5. The Castle of Ariano Irpino
We end with the Norman Castle of Ariano Irpino, at the highest point of the town, at about 811 metres. It has an almost trapezoidal plan with round towers at its four corners and, after a long restoration, since 2009 it has housed the Museum of Norman Civilisation.
We enjoyed strolling in the park around it, from which the view sweeps over the hills of the Tricolle. For details, see The Castle of Ariano Irpino and the Museum of Norman Civilisation. As always, check opening times and tickets on the official website before you set off.
How to get there and when to go
A car is essential for these places: from Avellino, Montevergine can be reached in less than an hour, while Laceno, Goleto and the Valle d'Ansanto take longer along the inland roads of Alta Irpinia. Ariano Irpino is easy to reach from the A16, Grottaminarda exit. Spring and autumn are ideal; in winter, check the condition of the mountain roads, especially towards Laceno and Montevergine.
In the surroundings
For a complete picture of the province, start from Avellino and its surroundings. If you are staying in the city, follow our itinerary What to visit in Avellino and the stops in our article on what to see in Avellino. To plan two days between the city and the mountains, A weekend in Avellino will help you.
Top photo (Avellino): unknown author, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
