«Epiphany takes all the holidays away», goes the Italian proverb. In Campania, though, 6 January is not just the end of the holidays: it is a day full of rituals, small and large, centred on children, that gently close the long Christmas cycle. There is the stocking hung the night before, the Befana descending from the sky in Piazza del Plebiscito, and the Magi finally reaching the grotto of the nativity scene. Here is how the feast is celebrated here and where to go to enjoy it at its best.
One feast, two souls
Epiphany is a religious feast: it commemorates Jesus being revealed to the world, represented by the visit of the Three Wise Men who, guided by the star, bring gold, frankincense and myrrh. In Campania's churches it is a heartfelt occasion, often accompanied by processions of the Christ Child.
Alongside this sacred side there is the popular one: the Befana, the old woman who flies on a broomstick and, on the night between 5 and 6 January, goes from house to house filling stockings. Her very name comes from «Epifania», reshaped by the spoken language over the centuries. The two figures live happily side by side: in the morning children unwrap the Befana's gifts, and then everyone goes to see the Magi in the crib.
The Befana's stocking
On the evening of 5 January, in Campania as in the rest of Italy, families hang up a stocking: on the fireplace, at the window or at the foot of the bed. On waking, children find it full of sweets, chocolates, nuts and small toys. Those who have misbehaved get coal, which nowadays is almost always sugar coloured black and causes more laughter than fear.
In the past the stocking was more modest: mandarins, walnuts, dried figs, a few home-made treats. That is one reason why, for Neapolitans, the days before Epiphany were the days of the fair.
The Toy and Stocking Fair in Piazza Mercato
For generations, in Naples, the Befana was «bought» in Piazza Mercato: in the days before 6 January the great square filled with stalls of toys and stockings, and families came from every neighbourhood. After a break of several decades, the tradition has returned with the Toy and Stocking Fair, which every year livens up Piazza Mercato and Piazza del Carmine with wooden huts, toys, colourful stockings, sweets and street food, music and entertainment for children.
We suggest combining the fair with a visit to the Basilica del Carmine and the church of Sant'Eligio, two of the oldest and least-known places in the city.
The Firefighters' Befana in Piazza del Plebiscito
On the morning of Epiphany, the centre of Naples has an appointment children wait for all year. In Piazza del Plebiscito the firefighters, dressed as the Befana, abseil down the façade of the Royal Palace, sack on their shoulders, in front of thousands of families. Once on the ground they hand out sweets to the little ones. The Firefighters' Befana is by now a well-established tradition that goes ahead even in the rain.
Our tip: arrive early to find a spot where children can see the descent clearly, then make the most of the day with a stroll between Via Toledo and the seafront.
The Magi reach the nativity scene
In the Neapolitan nativity scene the Magi are not just three figurines: they lead an exotic procession, with servants, horses, camels, musicians and figures in oriental costume carrying precious gifts. In many homes tradition has it that their figures are moved closer to the grotto little by little, day after day, to be placed before the Holy Family exactly on 6 January. To see these processions up close, the workshops of San Gregorio Armeno are the place to go.
Living nativity scenes also often run until Epiphany, and on some evenings the arrival of the Magi is one of the most awaited moments. Near Vietri sul Mare the Albori living nativity and in the Lattari Mountains the one in Pimonte's Valle Lavatoio usually have evenings up to 6 January: check the calendar and read our guide to Campania's living nativity scenes.
Local customs: Amalfi and Sorrento
On the Amalfi Coast, Epiphany has a special flavour. In Amalfi, 6 January opens with the procession of the Pastorelli (little shepherds), accompanied by bagpipers, and the day ends with the Christ Child being put back in its place in the Cathedral: the last chapter of a Christmas that here sounds of zampogne, as we explain on the page about Christmas and New Year in Amalfi.
In Sorrento the festive programme M'Illumino d'Inverno accompanies the town until Epiphany, with the procession of the Christ Child and the last evenings of lights and markets between Piazza Tasso and the old town.
And bonfires? In Campania the great winter fires belong less to Epiphany than to other dates: the night of Saint Lucy in December and, above all, the feast of Saint Anthony the Abbot on 17 January, when many villages light piles of wood and bless animals. If you want to see a bonfire, mark these dates in our calendar of Christmas in Campania day by day.
At the table on 6 January
There is no single Epiphany dish in Campania: it is usually a last festive family lunch, with the precious leftovers of the previous weeks. The last struffoli and roccocò are still on the table, together with the sweets from the stocking. For the full picture, read our guide to Christmas sweets in Campania.
Our tips
- 6 January is a public holiday: public transport and opening times may change, and central Naples is very crowded. Get around on foot or by metro.
- Check event dates and times in our what's on section: some events change from year to year.
- If you are travelling with children, the best combination is the Piazza Mercato fair in the days before and the Plebiscito Befana on the morning of the 6th.
Then, as the proverb says, the holidays are over. But not entirely: a few days later come the bonfires of Saint Anthony the Abbot, which in many villages pave the way for Carnival.
