We've put together in a single article two places that are very different from each other, but which in Benevento meet almost naturally: the medieval fortress dominating the end of the historic centre and an artist's garden hidden among the alleys. We enjoyed moving from the massive stone of the Rocca to the hushed silence of the Hortus Conclusus, and it's a combination we recommend.
The Rocca dei Rettori, the city's sentinel
The Rocca dei Rettori stands on Piazza Castello, in a commanding position where Corso Garibaldi ends. It consists of two adjoining blocks: the taller is the keep, while the lower one was the residence of the papal governors, who gave their name to the whole complex.
Its origins are Lombard: the great corner tower is the most recognisable surviving part of the fortification built at that time. Over the centuries the complex was transformed several times, reaching its present appearance in the 15th century.
From popes to prisons
For a long time Benevento was an enclave of the Papal States in the heart of the South. In 1321 Pope John XXII, then in Avignon, instructed the rector Guglielmo di Balaeto to restore the fortification as a palace for the rectors, that is, the governors sent by the pope.
From 1586 the Rocca was gradually turned into a prison, a role it kept until 1865. Part of the building was rebuilt after the earthquake of 1702. Looking at the façade of the keep, with its pointed openings and defensive features, you get a clear sense of this long history of power and control.
The Rocca today and its garden
Today the Rocca is the seat of the Province of Benevento and houses the historical section of the Museo del Sannio, which traces the city's history through documents and objects, with particular attention to the Risorgimento.
At the back there's a garden we recommend you don't overlook: among the trees, archaeological finds are on display, including fragments of Roman milestones, alongside a few works of modern art. From here the view sweeps over the city's rooftops and the surrounding hills.
Mimmo Paladino's Hortus Conclusus
After leaving the Rocca, we slipped into the little streets of the centre in search of the Hortus Conclusus, in Vico Noce. It lies in one of the old kitchen gardens of the convent of San Domenico and was created in 1992 by Mimmo Paladino, an artist born in Paduli, in the Sannio, and one of the leading figures of the Transavanguardia, together with the architects Roberto Serino and Pasquale Palmieri.
The name takes up the medieval idea of the enclosed garden, a place for contemplation. The space is divided into two parts: one shadier and wooded, the other more open and sunny, where most of the sculptures are concentrated. The work people remember most is the bronze horse with a golden mask on its muzzle, but as you walk around you discover a large disc, figures that act as fountains, and symbolic shapes in dialogue with the plants.
The greenery has meaning too: roses, lilies, palms, olive trees and bamboo were chosen for their symbolic value. We were struck by how such a small place manages to slow your pace: we suggest sitting down for a few minutes and looking around.
Getting there and when to go
The Rocca is in Piazza Castello, at the end of Corso Garibaldi; the Hortus Conclusus is also in the historic centre and can be reached on foot. Benevento has a railway station and can be reached by car from the A16 motorway via the link road to the city.
Both places can be visited all year round, but the garden is at its best in spring and early summer. As the Rocca also houses public offices and access times may vary, check opening times and tickets on the official website before you go. For more ideas on the city, see our guide Benevento and its surroundings.
Nearby
Heading down the Corso you come to Santa Sofia and the Museo del Sannio, home to the museum's other sections, and a little further on The Arch of Trajan. In the lower part of the centre, The Roman Theatre of Benevento awaits you. Outside the city, a few kilometres away, we recommend Pietrelcina, the places of Saint Pio and, if you love landscapes, The Taburno-Camposauro Park.
Photo at top (Benevento): Dэя-Бøяg, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
