Among craters, volcanic lakes and Roman ruins, the Campi Flegrei also hide small vineyards overlooking the Gulf of Pozzuoli. We have been among these vines and were struck by the sight of rows just a few steps from the fumaroles. Let us introduce a volcanic DOC with a very long history.
The production area
The Campi Flegrei DOC extends across the province of Naples, west of the city: it covers the whole territory of Pozzuoli, Bacoli, Monte di Procida, Quarto and the island of Procida, and part of Marano di Napoli and Naples. The soils are made of ash, lapilli, pumice and tuff, left by the eruptions that shaped the Phlegraean caldera. These very sandy soils held back phylloxera: many vines are still grown ungrafted, on their own roots.
Grapes and types
Two grapes take centre stage:
- Falanghina, at least 90% in the version that bears its name, and the base of Campi Flegrei bianco;
- Piedirosso, called Per' 'e Palummo (dove's foot) in dialect for the red colour of its stalks, also at least 90% in the varietal version.
The red combines Piedirosso and Aglianico. There are many types: white, red, Falanghina also as passito and spumante, Piedirosso also as riserva, rosé and passito. There are no sub-zones.
History and recognition
The vine has been at home here for thousands of years. Latin authors, including Pliny, mention the wines of ancient Puteoli, and the production rules cite the "vino de Putheolo" chosen in the Middle Ages for the table of King Charles II of Anjou. The DOC was recognised by decree of 3 October 1994 and updated in 2011 and 2014.
Food pairings
Phlegraean Falanghina, savoury and fresh, is perfect with seafood cooking: we have enjoyed it with oily fish such as anchovies and mackerel, mussels and seafood pasta. Piedirosso, a light and fragrant red, has a traditional pairing with parmigiana di melanzane (aubergine parmigiana) and goes well with pizza and white meat.
The Consorzio di tutela vini Campi Flegrei e Ischia, recognised by the Ministry, operates here, as the Campania Region's Guida Catalogo 2024 points out.
The Guida Catalogo 2024 also lists Campi Flegrei Falanghina among the whites ready to focus on longer ageing, following in the footsteps of the Irpinian Riservas.
Where to taste it and what is nearby
A tour of the area combines easily with archaeological visits: The Flavian Amphitheatre and Rione Terra in Pozzuoli, The Archaeological Park of Baia and The Archaeological Area of Cumae. For a complete itinerary read An excursion to the Campi Flegrei, and if you have an extra day take the ferry to The Island of Procida: what to do and what to see. At the table, try aubergine parmigiana.
The overview of the province's appellations is in The wines of Naples; for a journey through the region's wineries, start from The wines of Campania and Naples and its surroundings.
Sources: Campi Flegrei DOC production rules; MASAF, lists and production rules for DOP and IGP wines; Campania Region with AIS Campania, Guida Catalogo 2024 of the wine-growing and wine-making companies of Campania.
Photo at the top (Pozzuoli): unknown author, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.