Travelling around Irpinia, we realised that alongside the three great DOCGs there is an appellation that covers the whole province. It is the Irpinia DOC, the most versatile in the area: here is what sets it apart and how to read its label.
The production area
The Irpinia DOC covers the areas suited to vine growing throughout the province of Avellino: from the hills around the provincial capital, Avellino, to the Calore and Sabato valleys and on to upper Irpinia. It is an inland, mountainous land, with vineyards often at altitude and marked temperature swings, which the regional guide rightly calls the cradle of Campanian winemaking. This is also where the areas of Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo lie, around towns such as Taurasi, Lapio and Tufo.
Grapes, types and sub-zone
The DOC showcases the area's native grapes: among the whites Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe and Falanghina; among the reds Aglianico, Piedirosso and Sciascinoso. There are many types:
- white, red and rosé, also in the novello version;
- wines named after their grape, such as Irpinia Fiano or Irpinia Aglianico;
- sparkling wines, passitos and fortified wines;
- Aglianico vinified as a white.
There is also a sub-zone, the Campi Taurasini, dedicated to Aglianico and extending over 24 municipalities of the Calore valley and its surroundings, including Montemarano, Castelfranci, Paternopoli, Mirabella Eclano, Gesualdo and Nusco. It is often seen as the gateway to the world of Taurasi.
History and recognition
The production rules recall that Livy already spoke of Taurasia as rich in vineyards, and that in the 19th century Irpinia was among the most productive wine areas of southern Italy, so much so that a Royal School of Viticulture and Oenology was founded in Avellino. The DOC was recognised by decree of 13 September 2005 and the production rules have been updated several times, most recently in 2021.
Food pairings
The variety of types makes it possible to accompany a whole meal. We found the whites perfect with mushroom pasta and fresh cheeses, the rosé with Irpinian cured meats, and Aglianico, especially from the Campi Taurasini, with grilled meat, caciocavallo and fusilli with ragù. The passitos make a fine finish with dry biscuits and chestnuts.
These appellations are protected and promoted by the Consorzio di tutela dei vini d'Irpinia, recognised by the Ministry, as the Campania Region's Guida Catalogo 2024 points out.
With the 2020 revision of the Irpinian production rules, noted in the Guida Catalogo 2024, the Irpinia DOC also gained new types, including a red Piedirosso.
Where to taste it and what is nearby
For a tour of the vineyards, we recommend going up to Mercogliano for the Sanctuary of Montevergine and then moving on towards Sant'Angelo dei Lombardi, home of the Abbey of Goleto. In autumn, Montella is worth a detour, as we describe in The Montella IGP chestnut. For the table, read our articles on what to eat in Avellino and on fusilli avellinesi.
The overview of the appellations is in The wines of Avellino, together with the profiles of Taurasi DOCG wine, Fiano di Avellino DOCG and Greco di Tufo DOCG. To plan an itinerary, start from The wines of Campania and Avellino and its surroundings.
Sources: Irpinia DOC production rules; MASAF, lists and production rules for DOP and IGP wines; Campania Region with AIS Campania, Guida Catalogo 2024 of the wine-growing and wine-making companies of Campania.
Photo at the top (Avellino): unknown author, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.