Among Italian whites, Fiano di Avellino is one of those that surprise us most. Young, it is fresh and fragrant; after a few years in the bottle it becomes complex and mineral. We went looking for it in the hills around the Irpinian capital, and here is what we found.
An ancient grape
Fiano is one of the oldest white grape varieties in Campania. According to a widespread tradition, its name is linked to the vitis apiana, the grape loved by bees for its sweet berries. It is no coincidence that the production rules allow the appellation to carry the traditional mention Apianum.
The wine is made from at least 85% Fiano grapes; the rest, up to 15%, may come from Greco, Coda di Volpe and Tuscan Trebbiano.
The history of the appellation
Fiano di Avellino was recognised as a DOC in 1978 and as a DOCG by decree of 18 July 2003, together with Greco di Tufo. The amendments published in the Gazzetta Ufficiale in 2020 also created the Riserva type, which must age for at least 12 months from 1 November of the harvest year.
The production area
The area covers 26 municipalities in the province of Avellino, on the hills surrounding Avellino, along the Sabato valley and towards the Partenio. Among the best known are Lapio, considered by many to be one of the cradles of Fiano, Atripalda, Montefredane, Summonte, Sorbo Serpico, Santo Stefano del Sole, Candida, Manocalzati, Pratola Serra and Forino. The vines often grow at altitude, on varied soils that give different wines from village to village.
What it is like in the glass
The minimum alcohol content is 11.5%, and 12% for the Riserva. When young, Fiano smells of white flowers, yellow-fleshed fruit, aromatic herbs and toasted hazelnut; with ageing, notes of honey, candied citrus and smoky hints emerge. We were struck by how long-lived it is: a bottle a few years old can hold some lovely surprises.
At the table we recommend pairing it with seafood pasta dishes, shellfish, white meat, medium-aged cheeses and traditional Irpinian vegetable dishes.
These appellations are protected and promoted by the Consorzio di tutela dei vini d'Irpinia, recognised by the Ministry, as the Campania Region's Guida Catalogo 2024 points out.
The Guida Catalogo 2024 confirms that the 2020 revision of the Irpinian production rules introduced the Riserva, Spumante and Spumante Riserva types for Fiano di Avellino.
Where to taste it and what is nearby
To get to know Fiano, we suggest a tour of Lapio, Montefredane and Summonte, where you can combine cellar visits with the Tower of Summonte. The same province is home to Greco di Tufo DOCG and Taurasi DOCG wine, as well as the Irpinia DOC. Read also The wines of Avellino, the guide Avellino and its surroundings and our wine guide The wines of Campania.
Sources: Fiano di Avellino DOCG production rules (AIS); MASAF, production rules for DOP and IGP wines; Campania Region with AIS Campania, Guida Catalogo 2024 of the wine-growing and wine-making companies of Campania.
Photo at the top (Avellino): unknown author, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.