Anyone arriving in piazza del Gesù for the first time usually stops short in front of a grey, severe façade, covered in stone points, that looks like a fortress. We did the same, and then, once inside, we were left open-mouthed by the contrast with the Baroque interior. The Church of Gesù Nuovo is one of the symbols of the historic centre of Naples: here is why it deserves more than a quick stop.
From noble palazzo to church
The façade you see was not made for a church. It belongs to Palazzo Sanseverino, built in 1470 to a design by Novello da San Lucano for Roberto Sanseverino, Prince of Salerno. After the political events that led to the confiscation of the family’s property, the palazzo was bought by the Jesuits in 1584.
Its transformation into a church was directed by the Jesuit Giuseppe Valeriano, who kept the Renaissance façade and created a large sacred space inside. The works were completed in 1601. That is why the church seems "out of place" among the others in the centre: a 15th-century palazzo outside, a Counter-Reformation temple inside.
The diamond-point façade and its mysteries
The façade is clad in diamond-point ashlar, stone blocks worked into the shape of a pyramid. Get close and look carefully: many of the stones bear small, mysterious carved marks. Over the centuries they have been given the most varied interpretations, from stonemasons’ signatures to esoteric symbols, up to the theory, put forward in 2010, that they are a kind of musical notation.
We do not know who is right, but we had fun searching for them. It is one of those details that make the historic centre of Naples a never-ending treasure hunt, as we also tell you in The most famous streets of Naples.
A Baroque interior to take in slowly
Inside, the sobriety of the façade gives way to polychrome marble, gilded stucco and frescoes. As soon as you enter, turn round to face the inner façade: there, in 1725, Francesco Solimena painted the great scene of the Expulsion of Heliodorus from the Temple, one of his most celebrated works.
Along the chapels you will find the leading figures of 17th-century Neapolitan painting, such as Massimo Stanzione and Belisario Corenzio, while Cosimo Fanzago worked on the sculptures and the decoration of some of the chapels. The original dome, frescoed by Giovanni Lanfranco, collapsed in the earthquake of 1688 and was later replaced: the one you see today is the result of these rebuildings.
Saint Giuseppe Moscati, the saintly doctor
Many Neapolitans come to the Gesù Nuovo above all for him: Saint Giuseppe Moscati, a physician and university lecturer who lived between the 19th and 20th centuries, remembered for his dedication to the sick poor. He was canonised by Pope John Paul II in 1987, and his body is kept in the church.
Some rooms are dedicated to his memory and hold personal belongings and medical instruments. We were struck by how many ex-votos and how many people at prayer there were: a sign of a popular devotion that is still very much alive. The church also displays a bomb that fell during the bombings of 1943 and never exploded.
The Guglia dell’Immacolata
On your way out, spend a few minutes at the Guglia dell’Immacolata (Spire of the Immaculate Virgin), in the middle of the square. It was raised between 1747 and 1750 to a design by Giuseppe Genoino, thanks to a public subscription promoted by the Jesuit Francesco Pepe. The sculptural decorations are by Francesco Pagani and Matteo Bottiglieri with their workshops, and the statue of the Virgin stands at the top.
Together with the façade of the Gesù, the spire forms one of the most photographed views in the city.
How to get there and when to go
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo is the ideal starting point for exploring Spaccanapoli. The nearest metro stop is Dante (Line 1), a few minutes’ walk away; the historic centre has restricted traffic, so get around on foot or by public transport.
The church is an active place of worship: dress appropriately and respect the services. We recommend the morning, when the square is quieter and the light brings out the points of the façade. Check opening hours and service times on the official website before you go.
Nearby
- The Santa Chiara complex and its majolica cloister: right opposite, on the other side of the square.
- Visiting Naples: discover the Cappella Sansevero: a short walk through the alleys to see the Veiled Christ.
- Naples’ churches and basilicas: our itinerary through the city’s most beautiful churches.
- Galleria Umberto I and Via Toledo: heading down towards the sea, the Naples of the 19th century.
- Naples and Surroundings: our complete guide to the city and its province.
Photo at top (Naples): This Photo was taken by Wolfgang Moroder. Feel free to use my photos, but please mention me as the author and send me a message. This image is not in the public domain. Please respect the copyright protection. It may only be used according to the rules mentioned here. This specifically excludes use in social media, if applicable terms of the licenses listed here not appropriate. Please do not upload an updated image here without consultation with the Author. The author would like to make corrections only at his own source. This ensures that the changes are preserved.Please if you think that any changes should be required, please inform the author.Otherwise you can upload a new image with a new name. Please use one of the templates derivative or extract., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
Read also: The Archaeological Area of Cumae
