At the foot of the Taburno massif, in Sannio, Aglianico has found another of its homes. Every time we drive up towards these hills we are struck by the outline of the mountain, which the people of Benevento call the Sleeping Woman (la Dormiente). Here is the story of Campania's youngest DOCG.
A mountain Aglianico
Aglianico del Taburno is made from at least 85% Aglianico grapes; the rest may come from other non-aromatic black grape varieties. The vines grow on the slopes of Taburno-Camposauro, where a cool climate and limestone and clay soils give structured reds with lovely acidity.
From DOC to DOCG
The appellation was born as a DOC in 1986 and became a DOCG by decree of 30 September 2011: it is the most recent of Campania's four DOCGs and the only one in the province of Benevento.
Types and ageing
The production rules provide for three types: Rosso, Rosso Riserva and Rosato.
- The Rosso must be aged for at least 2 years from 1 November of the harvest year.
- The Riserva for at least 3 years, including at least 12 months in wooden casks and 6 months in the bottle.
- The Rosato cannot be released before 1 March of the year after the harvest.
The minimum alcohol content is 12% for the Rosso and Rosato, and 13% for the Riserva.
The production area
The area lies entirely in the province of Benevento. It covers the whole of Apollosa, Bonea, Campoli del Monte Taburno, Castelpoto, Foglianise, Montesarchio, Paupisi, Ponte and Torrecuso, and part of Benevento, Cautano, Vitulano and Tocco Caudio. Torrecuso, with its vineyards overlooking the Calore valley, is one of the emblematic villages of this wine.
What it is like in the glass
The Rosso is a deep ruby colour, with aromas of cherry, plum, spices and undergrowth, noticeable tannins and good balance. The Riserva gains complexity over time. The Rosato is fresher and fruitier. We recommend pairing the Rosso with grilled meat, ragù and mature cheeses, and the Rosato with cured meats and full-flavoured pasta dishes.
The sector is overseen by the Consorzio di tutela dei vini Sannio, recognised by the Ministry, which works to promote the area's labels (source: the Campania Region's Guida Catalogo 2024).
Where to taste it and what is nearby
To get to know Aglianico del Taburno, we suggest touring Torrecuso, Foglianise and Ponte, perhaps combining the wineries with a mountain hike (read The Taburno-Camposauro Park). The same area also produces Falanghina del Sannio DOC, with its Taburno sub-zone, and there is the broader Sannio DOC. Read also The wines of the Benevento area, the guide Benevento and its surroundings and our wine guide The wines of Campania.
Sources: Aglianico del Taburno DOCG production rules (AIS); Production rules in the Gazzetta Ufficiale (Sannio Consorzio Tutela Vini); MASAF; Campania Region with AIS Campania, Guida Catalogo 2024 of the wine-growing and wine-making companies of Campania.
Photo at the top (Torrecuso): Doncamillo1982 at Italian Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.