We arrived in San Marco dei Cavoti on a cold day, and the first thing we noticed was the scent of toasted almonds. That's no coincidence: this village in the Fortore area is known to everyone as the "torrone village", and here torrone isn't just a Christmas sweet but a tradition enjoyed all year round.
A village founded by Provençal settlers
San Marco dei Cavoti lies at an altitude of about 700 metres, in the north-eastern Sannio. Its history is a curious one: in the 14th century, after an earthquake had destroyed the previous settlement, a colony of Provençal settlers arrived here, many from the town of Gap. The inhabitants of that area were called "Gavots", and that's where the village's name comes from, first "dei Gavoti" and then "dei Cavoti".
The reminder of those origins is the Provençal Tower, from the 14th century, which dominates the historic centre. It's the spot from which we suggest starting your stroll.
Torrone and croccantino
Modern torrone production in San Marco dei Cavoti began at the end of the 19th century: the village's first factory is dated to 1891. Since then torrone has become the heart of the local economy and identity.
The most typical product is the croccantino, also called "bacio" (kiss): a small bar of brittle made with almonds and hazelnuts, originally coated in torrone and then, with a later innovation, covered in dark chocolate. That's the version you'll find most often today, and we loved it precisely for the contrast between the crunch inside and the chocolate outside.
Alongside the croccantino, the village offers traditional torrone made with honey and nuts. We recommend tasting it where it's made: you'll notice the difference from the packaged kind.
The Torrone Festival
Every year in December the village celebrates its product with the Festa del torrone, which livens up the weekends before Christmas. The centre fills with stalls, music and tastings, and it's when San Marco dei Cavoti is at its liveliest. If you want to see the village at its most festive, this is the time to go.
Not just torrone: the museum of tower clocks
Between tastings, we suggest a stop at the Museum of Tower Clocks, opened in 2005 in a 19th-century palazzo. It holds around fifty mechanisms from bell-tower and tower clocks, handmade between the 18th and 20th centuries. It's an unusual museum that surprised us. Check opening times and tickets on the official website before you go.
Getting there and when to go
San Marco dei Cavoti can be reached by car from Benevento, climbing towards the Fortore, not far from Pietrelcina. The best time for torrone is winter, with the December festival, but croccantini can be found all year round.
Nearby
- To find your way around the whole province, start with Benevento and its surroundings.
- Along the way, Pietrelcina, the places of Saint Pio awaits you.
- To discover the Sannio's other great sweet, read Torrone di Benevento.
- To round off your journey through the local flavours, there's Strega liqueur.
Photo at top (San Marco dei Cavoti): User:Pcocca Patrizia Cocca, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.
