Every time we return to Naples we treat ourselves to at least half a day at the National Archaeological Museum, the MANN. It is one of those places where time flies: you go in to see a couple of famous statues and come out late in the afternoon. Here we tell you what struck us and how to plan your visit.
A palace built for the university
The museum occupies the Palazzo degli Studi, a large building that for a long time housed the University of Naples. In 1777 King Ferdinand IV decided to turn it into the home of the kingdom’s cultural collections and entrusted the work to the architect Ferdinando Fuga, later replaced by Pompeo Schiantarelli.
The museum officially opened as the Real Museo Borbonico (Royal Bourbon Museum) on 22 February 1816. As you climb the monumental staircase you will immediately notice the scale of the project: towering halls, endless corridors and so many works that it is impossible to see everything in one go. Our advice is to pick two or three sections and enjoy them at a relaxed pace.
The Farnese collection, among marble giants
On the ground floor you will find the collection that, for us, is worth the trip on its own: the sculptures of the Farnese collection, inherited by the Bourbons and considered one of the world’s leading collections of ancient statues. The piece that leaves everyone open-mouthed is the Farnese Bull, the largest marble sculptural group to have survived from antiquity: walking around it and discovering the details of the figures takes time.
Not far away stand the Farnese Hercules, the weary hero leaning on his club, and the Callipygian Venus. The same collection includes the gems, among them the famous Farnese Cup, an agate cameo dating from between the 2nd and 1st centuries BC that surprised us with the finesse of its carving.
Pompeii and Herculaneum, on the mezzanine floor
The MANN is the perfect complement to a visit to the excavations around Vesuvius, because it holds many of the most precious finds recovered from the cities buried in AD 79. Among the mosaics, the standout is the Battle of Issus, also known as the Alexander Mosaic, from the House of the Faun in Pompeii: one of the most famous mosaics of antiquity, which in person impresses with its size and the movement of its figures.
The museum also holds what is considered the world’s largest collection of Roman-era frescoes. Don’t miss the section devoted to the Villa of the Papyri in Herculaneum, with around a hundred sculptures, mostly in bronze, and the Doryphoros, a Roman copy of the work by Polykleitos found in Pompeii. If you are planning to visit the excavations, also read Herculaneum and Pompeii: what to see.
The Secret Cabinet and the Egyptian section
One thing that always intrigues visitors is the Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto), the collection of erotic works that for centuries was kept out of public view. It reopened in 1976 and has been freely accessible since 2000: rather than shocking, it shows how different the ancients’ relationship with the body was.
We also really enjoyed the Egyptian section, opened in 1821 with pieces from the Borgia collection. Mummies, sarcophagi, amulets and statuettes offer a glimpse of a distant world, in a setting that is often quieter than the busier halls.
How to plan your visit
The museum is large, and we recommend arriving with a clear idea of what you want to see. We usually start with the Farnese collection, go up to the mosaics and leave the frescoes and the Villa of the Papyri for last. Some rooms may be temporarily closed for new displays or restoration: check opening hours and tickets on the official website before you go.
Getting there and when to go
The MANN is in Piazza Museo, on the edge of the historic centre. The easiest way to get there is by metro: Line 1 has its Museo stop right in front of the entrance, while Line 2 stops at Piazza Cavour, a few steps away. The museum is an ideal destination all year round and makes an excellent refuge on rainy days or on the hottest summer afternoons. To avoid the crowds, we suggest the early morning on weekdays.
Nearby
From the museum it is easy to head up the Capodimonte hill, where the royal palace and its picture gallery await you: we cover it in The Museum and Royal Park of Capodimonte. Along the same road you will find The Catacombs of San Gennaro, the city’s most important early Christian monument. Heading down into the historic centre instead, you can walk to the chapel of the Prince of Sansevero, described in Visiting Naples: discover the Cappella Sansevero. For a complete overview of the city and its province, start with our guide Naples and Surroundings.
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Read also: The Excavations of Oplontis
