Capodimonte is where we go when we want to see great paintings and then breathe in a bit of greenery, without leaving Naples. On the hill north of the centre you will find a royal palace turned into a museum and a huge park, enjoyed every day by Neapolitans. Here is how to make the most of both.
A royal palace built for paintings
The story of Capodimonte begins in 1738, when King Charles of Bourbon commissioned the engineer Giovanni Antonio Medrano to build a new royal palace on the hill. Its purpose was unusual for a royal residence: to house the extraordinary art collection the king had inherited from his mother, Elisabeth Farnese.
The works were already on display from the second half of the 18th century, but the Museo di Capodimonte was only officially opened in 1957. The palace is arranged around three courtyards and over several floors: it is so large that we recommend setting aside at least half a day for it.
The Farnese collection and the great masterpieces
On the first floor is the Galleria Farnese, arranged by artistic school. The presence of Titian here is exceptional: we lingered a long time in front of the Danaë and the portraits of Pope Paul III. A little further on, Parmigianino’s Antea awaits you, a portrait of a woman with a magnetic gaze.
Among the works that struck us are also Masaccio’s Crucifixion and Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s Parable of the Blind, with its line of figures stumbling one after another. Bear in mind that some works are lent to exhibitions in Italy and abroad, and that some rooms may be closed for works.
Neapolitan painting and contemporary art
Going up a floor, you enter the great age of painting in Naples. The most eagerly awaited work is Caravaggio’s Flagellation, painted during the artist’s stay in Naples, but it is also worth stopping in front of Artemisia Gentileschi’s Judith Slaying Holofernes, a work of striking power.
Capodimonte also has a section devoted to contemporary art, something rare for a museum of this kind. The most photographed piece is Andy Warhol’s Vesuvius, a pop tribute to the volcano that dominates the bay.
The Royal Apartments and the Porcelain Room
Don’t skip the Royal Apartments, which keep the look of a court residence with furniture, ceramics and objets d’art. The jewel is the Salottino di porcellana (Porcelain Room), made between 1757 and 1759 by the Real Fabbrica di Capodimonte (Royal Capodimonte Porcelain Factory): a small room entirely lined with decorated porcelain, which looks more like a precious object than a room. The museum also holds a rich collection of arms and armour.
The Real Bosco, a green lung above the city
Once you leave the museum, the Real Bosco di Capodimonte (Royal Park) is the perfect place for a walk. It covers 134 hectares and is home to around 400 plant species, including holm oaks, pines, oaks and exotic plants. From the main square, the five avenues fan out, dating back to the time of Charles of Bourbon: strolling along them in the shade of the trees is one of the pleasures of the visit.
In the park you will come across sixteen historic buildings, including lodges, hunting buildings, craft workshops, churches and the Capuchin hermitage. In the 19th century the botanist Friedrich Dehnhardt gave the gardens near the palace their English-style layout. We always bring something to eat: the lawns are perfect for a break in the open air.
Getting there and when to go
The palace stands on the Capodimonte hill, north of the historic centre. From the area around the Archaeological Museum you can easily get there on the city buses that climb along Via Santa Teresa degli Scalzi and Via Capodimonte; on foot the climb is demanding but doable. The Real Bosco is at its best in spring and autumn, while in summer we recommend arriving in the morning. Check opening times and tickets on the official website before you go.
Nearby
Heading down the hill along Via Capodimonte, you will find the entrance to The Catacombs of San Gennaro and, in the nearby Rione Sanità, The Catacombs of San Gaudioso. Further down, the great archaeological collection described in The National Archaeological Museum of Naples (MANN) awaits you. For an itinerary through the city’s artistic wonders read An art weekend in Naples and, to find your way around the whole province, our guide Naples and Surroundings.
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