When we arrived in front of Avellino Castle, one thing surprised us straight away: it does not stand on top of a hill, as you might expect, but in the lower part of the city. Only ruins remain, yet within those walls the stories of kings, princes and Renaissance courts crossed paths. Here is what to know before you go.
A castle unlike the others
The castle of Avellino is an unusual fortification for Irpinia, a land of strongholds perched on high ground. This one, by contrast, rises in the lower part of the centre, not far from the Teatro Gesualdo. Today it belongs to the Municipality of Avellino, which has been carrying out recovery and restoration work for years.
We are happy to include it in our itinerary Avellino and its surroundings, because it is one of the few places in the city where you can really touch Avellino's Middle Ages.
Lombard or Norman?
The name it is known by reflects tradition: the castle is said to have been founded in the Lombard period, serving military purposes and as a residence for those who governed the area. Some scholars date its origins to between the end of the ninth and the beginning of the tenth century.
More recent studies, however, hold that the structure we see today dates rather from the Norman era, probably the first half of the twelfth century. Finds that emerged during restoration also suggest an even older presence, from Roman times. In short, the history of this place is still partly to be written, and that is exactly what makes it fascinating.
From the Normans to the Aragonese
The castle played a leading role in the events of the Norman kingdom. According to local sources, in 1130 the antipope Anacletus II recognised Roger II as king here; a few years later, in 1137, Roger himself attacked the fortress, badly damaging it.
In the following centuries rulers and lords of various dynasties passed through, down to the Aragonese: in the fifteenth century the troops of Alfonso of Aragon besieged the castle, breaching its walls.
The Renaissance court of Maria de Cardona
Its most brilliant period came in the sixteenth century. At the start of the century Maria de Cardona and her husband Francesco d'Este began transforming the fortress into a Renaissance palace, and the castle became a small centre of culture, frequented by men of letters and poets. We like to imagine those halls filled with music and conversation, so different from the bare stones of today.
The Caracciolo family, earthquakes and decline
In 1581 the fief of Avellino was bought by Marino I Caracciolo, who a few years later became prince of the city. In 1630 the castle hosted Maria of Habsburg, Infanta of Spain and Queen of Hungary.
Earthquakes, however, sealed its fate: after the one of 1561, the tremors of 1688, 1694 and 1702 damaged it beyond repair. In the first half of the eighteenth century many of its stones were reused to build Palazzo Caracciolo in Piazza Libertà. If you stroll around the centre, we suggest looking at that palace and thinking about where its blocks came from.
In the 1970s there was even a proposal to demolish the ruins, averted thanks to the heritage protection authorities. In 1978 the Municipality began the recovery, and the restoration and excavations of the following years have yielded new information on the history of the site.
What you can see today
Today the castle is a collection of ruins: stretches of wall, partly excavated rooms, remains of the defensive structures. Do not expect furnished halls: the beauty here lies in reading the layers of stone and imagining the different phases of the fortress. Guided tours are organised from time to time, and we recommend them to better understand what you are looking at.
For those who love the more unusual side of the city, the castle also fits perfectly into a tour of Avellino's most mysterious and fascinating places.
How to get there and when to go
The castle is in the centre of Avellino and easy to reach on foot from Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the main squares. If you arrive by car, it is best to leave it in one of the car parks in the centre and continue on foot.
- Spring and autumn are the ideal seasons for a walk around the centre.
- Access to the area is not always open: check opening times, guided tours and tickets on the Municipality's official website before you set off.
- Combine your visit with a day in the city, perhaps as part of a weekend in Avellino.
Nearby
A few steps from the castle and outside the city, there are other places we recommend:
- The obelisk of the "Bronze King" and the historic palaces of the centre: The Obelisk of Charles II and Palazzo De Conciliis.
- The archaeological collections and the picture gallery: The Museo Irpino and the former Bourbon Prison.
- On Partenio, the faith and views of The Sanctuary of Montevergine.
- For another Irpinian castle steeped in Norman history: The Castle of Ariano Irpino and the Museum of Norman Civilisation.
Photo at the top (Avellino): unknown author, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
