When we reached the square of Casertavecchia, a medieval village in the hills above Caserta, the first thing we did was stop in silence in front of the cathedral. The church of St Michael the Archangel is a surprising mix of Romanesque, the Arab-Norman elegance of Sicily and the details of Apulian cathedrals. Let us show you around, inside and out.
A Norman cathedral dedicated to the Archangel
Construction began in 1113 at the wish of Bishop Rainulf, in the heart of the Norman era, and the church was consecrated in 1153 under Bishop John. The dedication to St Michael the Archangel is no coincidence: the warrior saint was deeply venerated by the Lombards, who had ruled this land in the preceding centuries.
For more than seven hundred years the building was the cathedral of the diocese. When the bishop's seat was moved to the new Caserta in the 19th century, the church lost its title, but it has remained a much-loved parish church. If you want to learn the history of the village around it, read our article on Casertavecchia.
The façade and the lantern tower: a meeting of cultures
The grey-ochre tuff façade is enlivened by three white marble doorways, with plant motifs and carved animals projecting from the masonry to support the lintels. Rows of interlacing blind arches run across the gable, while a cornice of hanging arches wraps around the whole building.
What struck us most, though, is the octagonal lantern tower that conceals the dome, built in the time of Bishop Stabile, between 1207 and 1216. Its intersecting arches on two levels and its inlays of different-coloured stone reveal Sicilian and Amalfi influences, with a taste reminiscent of Arab-Norman architecture. Walk around the church: every side offers a different detail.
The 1234 bell tower
Beside the cathedral rises the bell tower, about 32 metres high and completed in 1234 under Bishop Andrea, during the reign of Frederick II. At its base a large pointed arch lets through the road that climbs to the castle, and as your eye travels upwards you notice mullioned windows and decorations that anticipate the Gothic style. It is the symbol of the village, and you will find it almost impossible not to photograph it.
The interior: Roman columns and silence
Inside, the atmosphere is sober and intimate. The plan is a cross, with three naves separated by 18 reused columns, almost all in cipollino marble, taken from ancient Roman buildings. The capitals, mostly Corinthian, are all different from one another: we recommend looking at them one by one. The central nave is covered by a wooden truss roof, with round arches.
A small 14th-century chapel holds frescoes, while in the transept there are two 14th-century tombs inspired by the models of the Sienese sculptor Tino da Camaino. A polychrome sculpture of the Madonna is also kept in a niche in the wall.
What we see today is largely the result of the 1926 restoration directed by Gino Chierici, which removed later additions and returned the church to its original Romanesque forms.
Getting there and when to go
The cathedral stands in the main square of Casertavecchia, about 10 km from the centre of Caserta, and can be reached by car along the road that climbs into the Tifatini Mountains; leave the car at the edge of the village and continue on foot. As it is a place of worship, dress appropriately and avoid visiting during services. We recommend the late-afternoon light, when the stone of the lantern tower warms in colour. Check opening times and services on the official website of the diocese before you set off.
Nearby
- Casertavecchia, to discover the village's lanes, castle and views.
- Caserta's monuments and churches, the other churches not to miss in town.
- The Basilica of Sant'Angelo in Formis, another great medieval masterpiece of the province, in Capua.
- Caserta and its surroundings, our complete guide to the area.
Top photo (Caserta): Miguel Hermoso Cuesta, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
