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The black truffle of Bagnoli Irpino

The black truffle of Bagnoli Irpino
Photo: Lukewill · CC BY-SA 3.0 · resized and cropped

When we cut our first Bagnoli truffle in half, we were surprised by the pattern inside: pale veins weaving together like a maze. Then came the aroma, bold and a little pungent, unlike any other truffle we had ever tasted. Here is the signature product of this village in the Picentini mountains.

The Bagnoli truffle: a species that bears its name

The black truffle of Bagnoli is the species Tuber mesentericum, which takes the name by which it is known throughout Italy from Bagnoli Irpino itself. It is a truffle typical of the beech woods of central and southern Italy, and in the forests around Bagnoli and the Laceno plateau it finds an ideal habitat. Irpinia is, after all, the main truffle-hunting area of Campania. We also tell you about this area in our guide Avellino and its surroundings.

How to recognise it

Tuber mesentericum has a black, warty skin and dark flesh crossed by highly branched whitish veins. That is where its scientific name comes from: the maze-like pattern inside recalls the mesentery, the membrane that wraps the intestine.

Its most famous trait, however, is its aroma: intense, pungent, with a note reminiscent of carbolic acid. Not for nothing do locals also call it "fenico". It is a scent that divides opinion, but in the kitchen, used with a light hand, it gives dishes real character.

Where it grows and when it is harvested

The truffle grounds are found mainly at the foot of beech and pine trees, in the woods of the Monti Picentini. The harvest is concentrated in the autumn and winter months, according to the calendars set by law, and is carried out by truffle hunters with their trained dogs.

If you get the chance to join a truffle hunter for a day's search, do not miss it: watching the dog stop and start digging in the undergrowth is a sight worth the trip.

In the kitchen

In Bagnoli the truffle is mostly grated or shaved raw over simple dishes that let its aroma shine: homemade pasta, eggs, meat and cheeses. Its bold scent also stands up well to brief cooking, unlike more delicate truffles. Our advice is to taste it first in its simplest form, to really understand its character.

The autumn fair

Every year, towards the end of October, Bagnoli Irpino dedicates the Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero (Black Truffle Fair) to its product, held together with the chestnut festival. It is a popular recurring event, with stalls of local produce and tastings in the historic centre. Dates vary: check them on the Municipality's website before you set off.

Nearby

Photo at the top (Bagnoli Irpino): Lukewill, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

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