Driving along the coast road, bend after bend, we see terraces appear covered by pergolas, heavy with long yellow lemons. This is the sfusato amalfitano, the lemon that made this coast famous and that is now protected by the Limone Costa d'Amalfi IGP. Here is what makes it special.
An IGP since 2001
Limone Costa d'Amalfi is a Protected Geographical Indication registered by the European Union in 2001. The designation is reserved for fruit of the sfusato amalfitano variety grown in the area set out in the product specification, in the province of Salerno.
The area includes the whole of Atrani and parts of the municipalities of Amalfi, Cetara, Conca dei Marini, Furore, Maiori, Minori, Positano, Praiano, Ravello, Scala, Tramonti and Vietri sul Mare.
How to recognise the sfusato
The name "sfusato" describes its shape: elliptical and tapered, with pointed ends. The skin is citrine yellow, of medium thickness and very fragrant; the flesh is straw yellow, juicy, with high acidity and very few seeds. The specification highlights the richness of essential oils in the peel, which gives the fruit its intense scent.
The first time we cut one open on the coast, we were struck by how fragrant the peel already was, before we had even squeezed it.
The terraced gardens
What makes this lemon unique is also the landscape it grows in. The trees are grown under pergolas supported by chestnut poles, which at certain times of year are covered to protect the fruit from cold and wind. The lemon groves climb up terraces held up by dry-stone walls, known locally as macere, built over the centuries to win farmland from the steep slopes of the Lattari Mountains.
The harvest is done by hand, so as not to damage the fruit, and according to the specification it takes place mainly between February and October. It is hard work that has shaped the face of the coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997.
In the kitchen and in the glass
The sfusato is used fresh and in countless preparations: its juice and zest dress salads, fish and pasta dishes, it goes into desserts such as delizie al limone and sospiri, and of course it is used to make limoncello, which takes all its character from the fragrant peel.
Where to taste it and what is nearby
The best way to get to know it is to walk among the lemon groves: we recommend the paths between Amalfi, Minori and Maiori, or The Path of the Gods to see the terraces from above. To continue, read Amalfi: what to do and what to see, Sospiri al limone and Lemon cream liqueur or cremoncello, as well as our guide to Campania's DOP and IGP products. Don't miss Costa d'Amalfi DOC for the local wines either.
Sources: Qualigeo – Limone Costa d'Amalfi IGP; Ministry of Agriculture – Limone Costa d'Amalfi profile.
Photo at top (Amalfi): No machine-readable author provided. Sudodana2048 assumed (based on copyright claims)., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
