Two days is just the right amount of time to get to know Salerno without rushing. This is how we explored it: the first day devoted to the historic centre and its churches, the second to the upper part of the city, with the aqueduct and the castle, ending by the sea. Here is our itinerary, to adapt to your own pace.
Day 1, morning: the Duomo and Via dei Mercanti
Start from the Cathedral of San Matteo, commissioned by Robert Guiscard and consecrated in 1084 by Pope Gregory VII. Take your time over the quadriporticus, the bronze door that came from Constantinople and the crypt with the relics of the patron saint. If you are interested in sacred art, the nearby Diocesan Museum holds the Salerno Ivories.
Then walk down to Via dei Mercanti, the street of medieval trade, and let the alleys guide you. Along the way we suggest stopping at the Church of San Giorgio, with frescoes by Francesco Solimena, and at the complex of San Pietro a Corte, where beneath the Lombard chapel of Arechis II you can see the remains of Roman baths.
Day 1, afternoon and evening: the Minerva Garden and the seafront
After lunch, climb up to the Minerva Garden, the garden of simples where in the fourteenth century Matteo Silvatico grew medicinal plants. Its terraces are perfect for a rest while gazing at the rooftops and the sea. If you want to better understand the city's role in the history of medicine, on Via dei Mercanti there is the Virtual Museum of the Scuola Medica Salernitana.
Towards evening, head down to the Lungomare Trieste. We sat on the benches watching the sun set behind the Amalfi Coast: there is no better way to end the first day.
Day 2, morning: the Aqueduct and the Archaeological Museum
On the second day, start from Via Arce, where the arches of the medieval Aqueduct rise, built in the 9th century for the monastery of San Benedetto. The people of Salerno call it the "Devil's Bridges": according to legend, the magician Pietro Barliario raised it in a single night with the help of demons.
A few steps away, in the old San Benedetto complex itself, is the Provincial Archaeological Museum, which holds the splendid bronze Head of Apollo fished out of the gulf in 1930. An hour's visit is enough to get an idea of the ancient history of the area, from prehistory to Roman times, including the rich grave goods from the necropolises of the plain. We were struck by the feeling of walking on top of history: the museum's rooms occupy the spaces of a monastery first recorded in the Lombard era.
Day 2, afternoon and evening: Arechi Castle and the port
In the afternoon, go up to Arechi Castle, about 300 metres above the sea. Its origins date back to the 6th century, but its name recalls the Lombard prince who made Salerno his capital. From the walls the view sweeps over the whole gulf; inside, the small museum displays medieval ceramics and glass found during excavations.
On the way down, head to the port to see the Maritime Terminal designed by Zaha Hadid, opened in 2016. Then return towards the centre past the Teatro Verdi and the Villa Comunale, and treat yourself to a last stroll by the sea.
How to get there and when to go
Salerno can be reached by train on the Naples–Reggio Calabria line, which high-speed trains also serve, or by car on the A2 del Mediterraneo motorway. You do not need a car for this itinerary: everything can be done on foot, except the climb to the castle, for which you can use public transport. We recommend spring and autumn. Some museums open only on certain days: check opening times and tickets on the official website before you set off.
In the surroundings
For the full picture of the city and the province read Salerno and its surroundings. If you have an extra day, follow Visiting Salerno in 3 days, which adds the Amalfi Coast and Paestum. To learn more about the monuments on this itinerary, here are Salerno Cathedral, Arechi Castle and The medieval aqueduct of Salerno, the "Devil's Bridges".
