The province of Salerno has two very different coastlines: to the north, the cliffs and small beaches of the Amalfi Coast; to the south, the bays and long stretches of sand of the Cilento. We have explored both, by car, on foot and by boat. Here are the beaches we recommend, from north to south, with some practical tips on how to reach them.
The Amalfi Coast: beaches among the rocks
In Positano the Spiaggia Grande is the postcard view par excellence, with the colourful houses behind it. If you are looking for more peace, move on to Fornillo, linked by a path along the cliffs. You will find more tips in Positano and Praiano: what to visit.
In Praiano there is the Marina di Praia, a narrow inlet between two rock walls with fishing boats pulled up on the shore. A little further on, at Furore, the Fjord of Furore is a deep gorge carved by the Schiato stream, with a tiny beach beneath the bridge of the coast road. We tell you about it in The Fjord of Furore.
At Conca dei Marini the sea hides the Emerald Grotto, discovered in 1932 by a fisherman: the light filtering through an underwater opening turns the water green. It is visited by boat, reached by a lift down from the coast road. For those staying in Amalfi, the beaches in town are convenient but crowded: we suggest looking for the nearby coves, reachable by sea.
Castellabate and the northern Cilento coast
As you enter the Cilento the landscape opens up. In Castellabate the hamlets of Santa Maria and San Marco offer fine-sand beaches and shallow water, ideal for families. A little further south, towards Punta Licosa, the coast becomes wilder, with low rocks and Mediterranean scrub. At Acciaroli and Pioppi, in the municipality of Pollica, the sea is crystal clear and the seafronts are quiet.
Palinuro: the Buondormire and the Natural Arch
Centola, with its hamlet of Palinuro, is for us one of the most beautiful seaside destinations in Campania. The Bay of Buondormire is a small beach enclosed by rock walls: it is reached mainly by boat from Palinuro harbour, or along a steep path. The harbour is also the starting point for boat trips around Capo Palinuro and its sea caves.
South of the town, near the mouth of the Mingardo river, is the Arco Naturale beach, closed off by a great rock arch sculpted by the sea. Easier to reach are the Marinella beach, a few steps from the harbour, and the long Mingardo beach, accessible by car. Find out more in Palinuro and the Natural Arch.
Marina di Camerota and the Bay of Infreschi
The stretch of coast between Camerota and San Giovanni a Piro is protected by the Costa degli Infreschi e della Masseta Marine Protected Area, established in 2009. Here high limestone cliffs alternate with caves, underwater springs and seabeds with meadows of posidonia.
The jewel is the Bay of Infreschi, reached by sea from Marina di Camerota or on foot along a path through olive trees and Mediterranean scrub. Along the same coast are Cala Bianca, reachable almost only by boat or kayak, and the Lentiscelle beach, convenient and close to the village. It is all in The Bay of Infreschi.
Tips for a day at the beach
Many of the finest beaches have no facilities: bring water, a beach umbrella and shoes suitable for rocks. In high season set off early, because the car parks near the beaches fill up quickly. In protected areas, respect the anchoring bans and do not take away pebbles or shells. For boat trips and ferries, check timetables and tickets on the official website before you set off.
How to get there and when to go
For the Amalfi Coast we recommend the ferries from Salerno or the regular buses along the coast road, avoiding the car at summer weekends. The Cilento can be reached on the railway line running south from Salerno towards Sapri, but to move between beaches a car is almost essential. The ideal period runs from June to September; in late May and September the water is already pleasant and the beaches are less crowded.
In the surroundings
Between swims, treat yourself to a visit to Paestum and its temples or to ancient Elea with The Archaeological Park of Velia. To plan your trip in the south of the province read The Cilento: what to do and what to see, and for a complete overview start from Salerno and its surroundings.
