The first time we saw a melaio in autumn we stood looking at it for a long time: rows of apples laid on the ground, turned by hand one by one so that they catch the sun. This is how the Melannurca Campana IGP turns red. Here is its story.
An ancient apple
The roots of this apple go back to antiquity. In his Naturalis Historia, Pliny the Elder writes of apples from the area of Pozzuoli, ancient Puteoli, in the Campi Flegrei. The name changed over time: from mala orcula it became "Annurca", which first appears in writing in 1876.
IGP recognition
Melannurca Campana has been a Protected Geographical Indication since 2006. The production area covers 137 municipalities in all five provinces: Naples, Caserta, Benevento, Avellino and Salerno. The product specification allows two ecotypes: Annurca and Rossa del Sud.
The secret of the melai
What makes this apple unique is the way it ripens. The fruit is picked by hand while still green or just blushing, then laid on the ground, on beds of soft material, in long narrow plots called melai. Here the apples stay exposed to the light, protected by shade nets, and are turned by hand regularly until the whole skin takes on its characteristic red colour.
It is slow, patient work, and we recommend going to see it between October and December in the inland countryside: the red melai among the green orchards are quite a sight.
How to recognise it
The Melannurca is small to medium in size, round and slightly flattened. The skin is yellow or yellow-green, covered with red, often with small russet patches near the stalk. The flesh is white, crisp and juicy, with a flavour that combines sweetness and a pleasant acidity, and an intense aroma.
In the kitchen
We prefer it raw, at the end of a meal. But it also lends itself to juices, liqueurs, jams and desserts such as tarts. Baked with a drizzle of honey, it is an autumn snack we recommend you try.
Where to taste it and what is nearby
The area most closely tied to the tradition is the Naples area north of the city, around Giugliano in Campania, but you will also find melai in the Caserta area, towards Maddaloni, and in the Benevento area, around Sant'Agata de' Goti. If you are in the Campi Flegrei, combine it with An excursion to the Campi Flegrei. For other autumn products, read Marrone di Roccadaspide IGP and The Montella IGP chestnut; all the designations are in Campania's DOP and IGP products, and seasonal dishes in What to eat in Caserta.
Sources: Qualigeo – Melannurca Campana IGP.
Photo at top (Giugliano in Campania): Videfalco, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.
