Naples has a corner where the traffic disappears and only the sea remains: the tip of Posillipo, between the village of Marechiaro and the islets of the Gaiola. We got there on foot, walking down between villas and gardens, and found ourselves facing crystal-clear water with the remains of a Roman villa just at the surface. Here is how to enjoy this part of the city.
Marechiaro, the village of the "fenestella"
Marechiaro is a small fishing village on the coast of Naples, at the foot of the Posillipo hill. Despite appearances, its name is said to come not from the clearness of the water but from mare planum, "calm sea", as ancient documents show.
Its fame is tied to a small window overlooking the water, the "fenestella", which according to tradition inspired Salvatore Di Giacomo to write the lyrics of "Marechiare", set to music by Francesco Paolo Tosti and published in 1886. To this day there is a carnation on the windowsill, next to a marble plaque bearing the notes of the song. We stopped to look at it with a smile: it is one of those details that make Naples unique. From the village the view opens onto the gulf, Vesuvius, the Sorrento peninsula and Capri.
The Gaiola Underwater Park
Not far away lies the Gaiola Underwater Park Marine Protected Area (Area Marina Protetta Parco Sommerso di Gaiola), established by interministerial decree on 7 August 2002. It covers about 42 hectares of sea, from Marechiaro to the Bay of Trentaremi, and takes its name from the two islets of the Gaiola, just a few metres from the shore, which have become one of the city’s iconic landscapes.
Underwater lie the remains of Roman maritime structures: fishponds, landing places and walls of the great villa that occupied this coast. Alongside the archaeology there is nature: among the rocks you will come across octopuses, white seabream, groupers and gorgonians. The park is run by a non-profit interdisciplinary research centre, which also looks after its research and educational activities.
You can explore it with guided snorkelling, on glass-bottom boat tours or simply from the small beach. We chose the boat: seeing the Roman floors and walls beneath the hull was truly moving.
The Pausilypon and the Grotta di Seiano
Above the underwater park are the remains of the Pausilypon, the villa built in the 1st century BC by the wealthy Roman knight Publius Vedius Pollio. On his death, in 15 BC, the villa passed to Augustus and became imperial property. The Greek name means roughly "respite from pain", and looking at the view you understand why.
The complex included a theatre, an odeon, reception halls, baths and gardens. It is reached through the Grotta di Seiano (Sejanus’ Grotto), a Roman tunnel over 700 metres long that links the Bagnoli plain with the Gaiola valley. Be aware, though: the Pausilypon archaeological park has been closed to the public since 1 October 2026 for restoration works. Check on its reopening before planning your visit.
How to get there and when to go
The entrance to the marine area is at the bottom of the Discesa Gaiola, reached from via Posillipo: the last stretch is on foot. By public transport, take the buses that run along via Posillipo. Marechiaro is reached by walking down the street of the same name.
Access to the Gaiola area is free but numbers are limited: in summer you need to book online, in the other months you register at the entrance or in advance. The park closes in the event of a weather alert. Check opening hours and access arrangements on the official website before you go. For swimming, the ideal season runs from June to September; for walks, spring and autumn are perfect.
Nearby
If you are looking for other places to swim in the city, read The beaches of Naples and surroundings. From Posillipo you get a good view of the Phlegraean Fields, to be explored with An excursion to the Phlegraean Fields, and to head back towards the centre there is The legend of Castel dell’Ovo. For more ideas about the city, you will find everything in What to see in Naples and in Naples and Surroundings.
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