Every time we stroll along the Naples seafront, our eyes end up there: Castel dell'Ovo, massive and golden, planted in the sea in front of Via Partenope. It is the oldest castle in the city and bears a curious name, "Egg Castle", linked to one of the most famous Neapolitan legends. Here is the story of the magic egg and what you will find today within its walls and in the Borgo Marinari.
The legend of Virgil and the egg
In the Middle Ages the Latin poet Virgil, who lived for a long time in Naples and was buried here, was regarded by Neapolitans as a kind of magician protecting the city. According to legend, it was he who hid an egg in the castle's vaults, enclosed in a glass carafe, which was in turn kept in an iron cage.
The fate of the castle and of all Naples depended on that egg: as long as it remained intact, the city would be safe. If it broke, misfortunes of every kind would follow. It is a simple story, but we love it because it captures so well the Neapolitans' relationship with mystery and luck.
Joanna I and the "replaced" egg
The legend has a sequel. In the fourteenth century, during the reign of Joanna I of Anjou, part of the castle collapsed. Panic spread through the city: many thought the egg had broken and that great disasters were about to strike. To calm people down, the queen had to swear publicly that she had had the egg replaced. We find it striking that a legend needed an official promise to be "fixed".
From the islet of Megaride to the castle
The real history of the place is very ancient. The castle stands on the islet of Megaride, where Greeks from Cumae founded the first settlement of the city, linked to the myth of the siren Parthenope. In the 1st century BC the Roman general Lucius Licinius Lucullus built a sumptuous villa here, with a library and fishponds, remembered in the name Castrum Lucullanum.
It was here, in 476, that Romulus Augustulus, the last Western Roman emperor, was confined. Later the islet was home to a community of monks, and in the tenth century the complex was dismantled to prevent it from becoming a base for enemies. Around 1140 the Normans under Roger rebuilt the castle, which was later strengthened by the Swabians, the Angevins and the Aragonese.
What to see today
Today Castel dell'Ovo is a cultural venue hosting exhibitions and events. It is reached by a bridge from the seafront and, climbing up ramps and through courtyards, you come to the terraces overlooking the gulf. From up there the view sweeps from Vesuvius to the hill of Posillipo: it is one of the views of Naples that moves us most, especially at sunset.
At the foot of the castle lies the Borgo Marinari, a small harbour with boats, colourful houses and cafés and restaurants overlooking the water. It is the ideal place for a break after your visit and to see the city from a different perspective.
We suggest rounding off your visit with a walk along the seafront, towards Mergellina in one direction and the port in the other. According to myth, it was right in front of the castle that the body of the siren Parthenope washed ashore: it is lovely to think that the city was born, symbolically, at the very spot where this castle stands.
Getting there and when to go
The castle is on the seafront, opposite Via Partenope, a few minutes' walk from Piazza del Plebiscito. The seafront is largely pedestrianised, so we recommend arriving on foot. The best time is late afternoon, with warm light over the gulf. Check opening hours and tickets on the official website before you go.
Nearby
To plan your visit, start from our guide Naples and its surroundings. The myth linking the castle to the founding of the city is told in The legend of the siren Parthenope: the myth of the birth of Naples. A short walk away are Spaccanapoli, Piazza del Plebiscito and the Royal Palace and The Maschio Angioino, while for another stretch of coastline we recommend Marechiaro and the Gaiola Underwater Park.
Top photo (Naples): This Photo was taken by Wolfgang Moroder. Feel free to use my photos, but please mention me as the author and send me a message. This image is not in the public domain. Please respect the copyright protection. It may only be used according to the rules mentioned here. This specifically excludes use in social media, if applicable terms of the licenses listed here not appropriate. Please do not upload an updated image here without consultation with the Author. The author would like to make corrections only at his own source. This ensures that the changes are preserved.Please if you think that any changes should be required, please inform the author.Otherwise you can upload a new image with a new name. Please use one of the templates derivative or extract., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
