In Naples, traditions aren't museum memories: you see them in the street, in the workshops, in the churches and even in the numbers people swap at the bar. Every time we go back we discover a new ritual. Here are the ones that, in our view, are worth knowing before you set off.
The Neapolitan nativity scene and San Gregorio Armeno
If there's one tradition that sums up Naples, it's the presepe, the nativity scene. Here it doesn't just depict the Nativity: next to the grotto appear taverns, markets, vendors and characters from everyday life, in a crowded scene full of detail. The pastori (crib figures) are handmade, with terracotta heads and fabric clothes, and making them takes time and great skill.
The place to soak up this tradition is Via San Gregorio Armeno, in the historic centre, where the artisans' workshops work all year round and, at Christmas time, the street fills with visitors. We recommend taking your time and looking at the figurines up close: alongside the classic ones you'll also find figures from current affairs. We tell you more in The Neapolitan nativity scene and in San Gregorio Armeno, the street of nativity scenes.
The Cantata dei Pastori
Also at Christmas time comes the Cantata dei Pastori, a play written by Andrea Perrucci and published in 1698 under the pseudonym Ruggiero Casimiro Ugone. Its original title is Il vero lume tra l'ombre ("The true light among the shadows"), and it tells the story of Mary and Joseph's journey to Bethlehem, hindered by devils.
What makes the work so beloved are the comic characters added over time: Razzullo, an ever-hungry Neapolitan scribe, and Sarchiapone, a barber on the run. The play has been staged for generations and is an important part of Neapolitan popular theatre. If you're in the city over the holidays, check the theatre listings.
The miracle of San Gennaro
San Gennaro is the city's patron saint, and for Neapolitans he is much more than a saint. The heart of the devotion is the liquefaction of the blood kept in two ampoules in the Cathedral. The first written record dates back to 17 August 1389, in the Chronicon Siculum.
The miracle is awaited three times a year: in May, for the translation of the relics, on 19 September, the saint's feast day, and on 16 December, which commemorates the eruption of Vesuvius in 1631. When the blood liquefies, it is considered a good omen for the city. It's all in The miracle of San Gennaro and in Naples Cathedral.
Pulcinella
The mask of Pulcinella, with his loose white shirt, black half-mask and conical hat, is the face of Naples around the world. His roots go back to the ancient Atellan farces, but the character took shape in the commedia dell'arte at the beginning of the 17th century, thanks to the actor Silvio Fiorillo. At Carnival you'll see him everywhere, and in the workshops of the centre you'll find figurines and souvenirs bearing his face. We tell his story in Pulcinella.
The Smorfia
In Naples, dreams turn into numbers. The Smorfia pairs each number from 1 to 90 with an object, a person or a situation, and has been used for centuries to play the lotto. The name probably comes from Morpheus, the Greek god of sleep. 90, for example, is "fear". You'll hear numbers quoted even in everyday conversation: it's one of the most entertaining ways to get into the city's culture. Find out more in The Neapolitan Smorfia.
The caffè sospeso
We end with a small but beautiful tradition: the caffè sospeso, or "suspended coffee". Those who can afford it pay for an extra coffee, which stays "suspended" for someone who comes in later and can't pay for it. It's a gesture of generosity that says a lot about the city. You'll find it described in Neapolitan coffee and the caffè sospeso.
Nearby
To plan your trip, start with our guide Naples and its surroundings. If you want to experience these traditions first-hand, we suggest walking along Spaccanapoli, Piazza del Plebiscito and the Royal Palace and reading What to do in Naples. To discover the city's more mysterious side, take a look at Fontanelle Cemetery: between beliefs and truth.
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