The first time we walked into Naples Cathedral we expected a great cathedral, and that is what we found. What we didn't expect was to find inside it, side by side, an early Christian basilica, a baptistery almost sixteen centuries old and one of the richest Baroque chapels in Italy. That's why we recommend setting aside more time for it than you think you'll need.
An Angevin cathedral on ancient foundations
The Cathedral, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, stands on Via Duomo, in the heart of the historic centre. Construction of the Gothic building began under Charles II of Anjou, from around 1290, and was completed under his son Robert of Anjou: the solemn dedication took place in 1314. Yet the new cathedral did not rise from nothing: it incorporated much older places of worship, which can still be visited today.
Its history has been shaped by earthquakes. The one in 1349 brought down the façade and the bell tower, and the one in 1456 badly damaged the nave. Each time the church was repaired and embellished, so that today very different styles live side by side.
The façade and the interior
The façade we see today is more recent than it looks: it is neo-Gothic, the result of an 1876 competition won by Errico Alvino, and the work was completed in 1905. The three Gothic portals from 1407, attributed to Antonio Baboccio da Piperno, are original.
Once inside, you are struck by the proportions of the central nave, about 100 metres long, with its gilded coffered ceiling and numerous paintings. Chapels from different periods open along the walls, and it's worth exploring them one by one rather than heading straight for the altar.
Santa Restituta and the Baptistery of San Giovanni in Fonte
From the left aisle you enter the Basilica of Santa Restituta, an early Christian church from the 4th century, considered the oldest in the city and later remodelled in the Baroque period. For us it was the loveliest surprise of the visit: stepping into a church inside another church truly gives you a sense of the depth of Neapolitan history.
Next to it is the Baptistery of San Giovanni in Fonte, considered one of the oldest in the Western world, with fragments of early Christian mosaics whose colours are still vivid. Remains from the Greek and Roman periods can also be seen in the area, proof that this place has been in continuous use for more than two thousand years.
The Treasure and the Crypt of San Gennaro
Along the right aisle opens the Royal Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro, born from a vow made by the city in 1527, amid a French siege and the plague; it was built from 1608 and completed in 1646. Artists such as Cosimo Fanzago, Domenichino, Giovanni Lanfranco and Jusepe de Ribera worked on it. This is where the ampoules containing the blood of the patron saint are kept. The extraordinary treasure of jewels and silverware, on the other hand, is displayed in the adjoining museum, which has a separate entrance.
Beneath the high altar you descend into the Succorpo, also known as the Carafa Chapel, built between 1497 and 1508 by Tommaso Malvito: it is one of the masterpieces of the Renaissance in Naples and holds the relics of San Gennaro. It is an intimate place, where you can feel the deep devotion of Neapolitans to their patron saint.
The miracle of the blood
The Cathedral is above all linked to the miracle of San Gennaro, the liquefaction of the blood kept in the ampoules. By tradition the miracle is awaited three times a year: on the Saturday before the first Sunday of May, on 19 September, the saint's feast day, and on 16 December, the anniversary of the 1631 eruption of Vesuvius. On those days the cathedral fills with the faithful and the curious. We tell you all about it in The miracle of San Gennaro.
Getting there and when to go
The Cathedral is on Via Duomo, within walking distance of the central station in Piazza Garibaldi or the Duomo stop on Metro Line 1. We suggest visiting on a weekday, outside of celebrations, so you can see Santa Restituta and the baptistery at your own pace. Remember that it is a place of worship: dress appropriately and be respectful during services. The baptistery and the museum have their own entrances and tickets, so check opening times and tickets on the official website before you go.
Nearby
To plan your trip, start with our guide Naples and its surroundings. The Cathedral is a natural stop on the itinerary described in Naples: churches and basilicas, and from here, walking along Via dei Tribunali, you reach the entrance described in Visiting Underground Naples. A little further on, in Via Vicaria Vecchia, Jorit's San Gennaro awaits you, which you'll find in The murals of Naples.
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