In Naples coffee is not just a drink: it is a way of being together, a break that is offered and accepted without a second thought. We have drunk it standing at the counter, in the company of strangers, and every time we have felt we were taking part in a small ritual. Here is what lies behind the little cup.
How coffee arrived in Naples
It is said that the fashion for coffee at court was launched by Maria Carolina of Austria, wife of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, who reportedly had it served during a ball at the Royal Palace of Caserta in 1771. Whether or not it happened exactly like that, coffee has since become part of daily life throughout the city, in palaces and alleys alike.
The cuccumella, the Neapolitan coffee pot
Before the moka pot, Neapolitan homes used the Neapolitan flip coffee pot, affectionately called cuccumella, a diminutive of cuccuma, the copper or terracotta pot. Curiously, its inventor was not Neapolitan: it was the Frenchman Jean-Louis Morize who perfected this system in 1819.
It works simply but requires patience. The water is heated in the lower chamber and then the pot is turned upside down: the water slowly drips through the filter by gravity. A cuppetiello, a small paper cone that keeps in the aroma, is placed over the spout.
This ritual was immortalised by Eduardo De Filippo in his play Questi fantasmi, where the main character explains to his neighbour, from the balcony, every step for making a proper coffee. We recommend watching it again: it is one of the best-loved scenes in Neapolitan theatre.
The caffè sospeso
The loveliest tradition is the caffè sospeso, the "suspended coffee". Someone walking into a café pays for two coffees but drinks one: the other stays "suspended" for whoever comes in later and cannot afford it. An anonymous gesture of solidarity, with no thanks expected.
According to the writer Riccardo Pazzaglia, the custom arose from the small squabbles among friends over who would pay: when in doubt, someone ended up paying for an extra coffee and leaving it for a stranger. In 2008 Luciano De Crescenzo gathered thoughts and anecdotes on the subject in his book Il caffè sospeso.
From Naples the idea has travelled around the world, from Spain to Argentina, and over time networks and associations have sprung up to promote it for charity. If you get the chance, try it yourself: it is a lovely way to feel part of the city.
How it is drunk in Naples
Neapolitan coffee is short and intense, often served in a warmed cup. In many cafés you will also be brought a glass of water, to drink first to prepare your palate. And if someone offers you a coffee, there is only one piece of advice: accept.
Nearby
Coffee is the perfect ending to a Neapolitan lunch: find out what to order first in our guide to what to eat in Naples, and pair it with a Neapolitan babà or The Neapolitan sfogliatella. More of the city's customs await you in our article on famous Neapolitan traditions. To plan your trip, start from Naples and its surroundings.
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