In the heart of the inland Cilento, in Gioi, we discovered a cured meat we did not expect: when you slice it, a white eye of lard appears at the centre of every slice. This is the soppressata of Gioi, a rare speciality made by just a handful of families. Here is what makes it unique.
The secret is at its heart
What sets it apart from all other soppressate is the central strip of lard: a whole fillet of lard is inserted lengthwise into the mixture. Besides the decorative effect, with the white standing out against the reddish-brown meat, the lard keeps the salami soft as it cures. It is the only larded salami in Campania, made with a technique reminiscent of some traditions from Abruzzo.
The mixture uses only meat from the pork leg, carefully trimmed of cartilage and sinews and finely minced. It is shaped like a small loaf, divided in two by the tying.
Curing and storage
The soppressata of Gioi is made only in the cold months, from September to April. The ideal curing period is 40-45 days in natural conditions, taking advantage of the climate of the Cilento hills. Then, according to traditional practice, it is preserved in extra virgin olive oil, in lard, or in terracotta jars with very little oil: an age-old way of having it to hand all year round.
A long history, a small production
According to sources gathered by Slow Food, the first records of this salami date back to the 11th century, and it is mentioned in an agricultural text from 1835. The production area is limited to Gioi and a few nearby villages, such as Salento, Stio and Orria, at around 600 metres above sea level.
Today the soppressata is a Slow Food Presidium, created together with the Cilento National Park to save a family tradition that was at risk of disappearing: very few producers still make it the traditional way. Buying it also means supporting those who keep this tradition alive.
How to enjoy it
We suggest tasting it in slices that are not too thin, to appreciate the contrast between meat and lard, with rustic homemade bread and a glass of local wine, perhaps a Cilento DOC. It also works well on a mixed platter with Cacioricotta caprino del Cilento.
Nearby
Gioi is a small, quiet hilltop village with sweeping views, perfect for a stop on an itinerary through the inland Cilento. To plan your trip, start with our guide The Cilento: what to do and what to see. Not far away, towards the coast, is The Archaeological Park of Velia, while to learn about local customs we recommend our article on Cilento traditions.
Top photo (Gioi): PLBechly, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
