We have eaten pizza in half the world, but every time we are in Naples we realise that here it is something else. It is not just a dish: it is a craft, a tradition and a piece of the city's identity. Here is where it comes from and what makes it unique.
An art that is world heritage
On 7 December 2017, at the committee meeting held on the Korean island of Jeju, UNESCO inscribed the art of the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo on the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Note the detail: what is recognised is not pizza itself, but the know-how of the pizza makers, made up of gestures, songs and techniques handed down through generations.
A few years earlier, in 2010, Neapolitan pizza had already become a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) under EU Regulation 97/2010. The production rules set precise standards: baking in a wood-fired oven at around 485 °C for 60-90 seconds, a thin centre and a high, airy cornicione (the raised rim).
The origins, between history and legend
Pizza as we know it took shape in Naples in the eighteenth century, when the first pizzerias appeared and tomatoes entered the kitchens of ordinary people. It was street food, cheap and quick.
The most famous story dates back to June 1889: the pizza maker Raffaele Esposito is said to have prepared for Queen Margherita of Savoy a pizza with tomato, mozzarella and basil, the colours of the Italian flag, hence the name Margherita. It is a lovely story, but it does not mark the birth of pizza: as early as the mid-nineteenth century Francesco De Bourcard was describing pizzas with mozzarella and tomato, and some historians doubt the authenticity of the documents linked to the episode.
Marinara and Margherita, the two classics
The TSG recognises two pizzas. The marinara, with tomato, garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil, whose name is linked to the tradition of sailors. And the margherita, with tomato, mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil. We recommend trying both before moving on to the variations: it is the best way to understand the dough.
Fried and "wallet" pizza
Then there is street pizza. Pizza fritta, filled and folded into a half-moon, was born as a cheap alternative when an oven was a luxury. Pizza a portafoglio ("wallet pizza") is a small pizza folded in four, to eat as you walk: it is our favourite snack between one visit and the next.
Nearby
To plan your visit, start from our guide Naples and its surroundings and from our overview of what to eat in Naples. You will find everything about mozzarella in Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, while to discover the city's other dishes read our article on typical Neapolitan dishes.
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