Every time we return to Naples we realise that the best way to understand it is to walk. Its streets are not just links between one monument and the next: they are the monument, with centuries of history layered beneath your feet. In this article we take you along the streets that, in our view, best tell the story of the city.
Spaccanapoli, the line that splits the city in two
Let's start with the most famous. Spaccanapoli corresponds to the decumanus inferior of the Roman city, the Greeks' plateia, and owes its name ("Naples-splitter") to the fact that, seen from above, it divides the old centre with an almost perfect line between north and south. In reality it is a succession of streets: Via Benedetto Croce, Via San Biagio dei Librai and, beyond Via Duomo, Via Vicaria Vecchia and Via Forcella.
Along the way you pass the Gesù Nuovo, Santa Chiara, San Domenico Maggiore and the statue of the Nile God. We won't go on too long here, because we've devoted a separate article to it: Spaccanapoli, Piazza del Plebiscito and the Royal Palace.
Via dei Tribunali, the decumanus maximus
Parallel to Spaccanapoli, a little further north, runs Via dei Tribunali, the ancient decumanus maximus. This is the street that, more than any other, gave us the feeling of walking inside Greco-Roman Neapolis: porticoes, churches, noble palazzi and, below street level, cisterns and tunnels. From here, in Piazza San Gaetano, you go down into Visiting Underground Naples, and not far away is the church of Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco, with the skulls on its façade.
Via dei Tribunali is also home to the basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore, with the excavations of the Roman market, and the Girolamini complex. We recommend taking it slowly and looking up often: many details can only be spotted that way.
Via San Gregorio Armeno, the street of nativity scenes
Linking the two decumani is an ancient cardo, now famous all over the world: Via San Gregorio Armeno. According to tradition, a temple dedicated to Ceres stood here, to which small terracotta figurines were offered, and some see in this custom a distant echo of the art of the nativity scene.
The artisans' workshops are open all year round: classic shepherd figures, scenes of everyday life, but also tongue-in-cheek figurines of famous people. The busiest period runs from November to Epiphany, when the street is almost impassable but truly spectacular. Along the way, the church of San Gregorio Armeno with its cloister is worth a stop. We go into more depth in San Gregorio Armeno, the street of nativity scenes and in The Neapolitan nativity scene.
Via Toledo, between palazzi and the Quartieri Spagnoli
Changing pace, we come to Via Toledo, opened in 1536 at the behest of the viceroy Pedro Álvarez de Toledo. About 1.2 kilometres long, it links Piazza Dante to Piazza Trieste e Trento. Between 1870 and 1980 it was called Via Roma, and some older Neapolitans still call it that today.
It is the city's great shopping street, but also a gallery of architecture: along the way you pass Palazzo Zevallos, the Banco di Napoli building and, towards Piazza Trieste e Trento, the entrance to the Galleria Umberto I. We also suggest going down into Toledo metro station, opened in 2012 and famous for its blue mosaics evoking the sea. On the western side of the street, the alleys of the Quartieri Spagnoli climb uphill, which we also describe in The murals of Naples. For more on the area, see The Galleria Umberto I and Via Toledo.
Via Chiaia and the Via Caracciolo seafront
From Piazza Trieste e Trento you turn into Via Chiaia, an elegant pedestrian street leading towards Piazza dei Martiri and the district of the same name. It's a pleasant stroll, quieter than the historic centre.
At sunset we recommend heading down to the sea. Via Caracciolo, built on land reclaimed from the sea between 1869 and 1880, is named after Admiral Francesco Caracciolo, hero of the Neapolitan Republic of 1799. Together with Via Partenope it forms the seafront promenade, which runs alongside the Villa Comunale as far as Mergellina, with Vesuvius on one side and the Posillipo hill on the other. A long stretch is pedestrianised, and walking here gave us some of the finest views of the city. From Via Partenope you can easily reach Castel dell'Ovo, the star of The legend of Castel dell'Ovo.
Getting there and when to go
The historic centre is best explored on foot. To get there, Metro Line 1 stops at Dante, Toledo and Municipio, while from the central station in Piazza Garibaldi it's just a few minutes away. Avoid driving: traffic and parking are a serious problem. The best months are spring and autumn, when walking is a pleasure; in December San Gregorio Armeno is magnificent but very crowded. If you want to visit churches or museums along the way, check opening times and tickets on the official website before you go.
Nearby
To plan the rest of your trip, start with our guide Naples and its surroundings. If you're short on time, you'll find a ready-made itinerary in Visiting Naples in 2 days. Along these streets you'll come across many of the churches described in Naples: churches and basilicas, and after all that walking you deserve a break: find out what to order in Neapolitan pizza.
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