When we think of art in Naples, Caravaggio, the Baroque and nativity scenes come to mind. Yet the city also had a very lively 20th century, and the best place to discover it is within the walls of Castel Sant'Elmo. We went up to the Vomero to visit the Museo del Novecento a Napoli, and here's what to expect.
The name and the venue
The museum's official name is Museo del Novecento a Napoli (Museum of the 20th Century in Naples), often also referred to as "Novecento a Napoli" or "Museo Novecento". It opened in 2010 and is located inside Castel Sant'Elmo, the star-shaped fortress that dominates the city from the Vomero hill.
The works are displayed in the rooms of the Carcere Alto, the spaces that were used as a prison for centuries. We were struck by the contrast between the fortress's thick walls and vaults and the expressive freedom of the works: an unusual dialogue that makes the visit different from that of a traditional museum. The museum is run by the Ministry of Culture, which also manages the castle.
Seventy years of art in Naples
The collection tells the story of art produced in Naples, or by artists linked to the city, between 1910 and 1980. The route brings together about 170 works by some ninety Neapolitan artists, along with a few non-Neapolitan artists who help connect local experiences with the great international movements.
You'll find painting, sculpture and various experiments in graphic art. More than a simple collection of masterpieces, the museum tells a story: you come to understand how Naples went through the avant-gardes of the last century, sometimes ahead of its time, sometimes in an entirely original way.
From Futurism to Art Informel
The route begins with the years of Futurism, between 1910 and 1914, when the wave of the movement founded by Filippo Tommaso Marinetti reached Naples too. Among the names in the collection is Fortunato Depero, one of the leading figures of Italian Futurism.
Moving on, you reach the post-war period, the years between 1948 and 1958, marked by the Movimento Arte Concreta and the season of Art Informel. The following rooms take you up to the last decades of the century, with artists such as Mimmo Paladino and Francesco Clemente, leading figures of the Transavanguardia.
A work for the Castle
The museum doesn't only look to the past. Since 2011 it has promoted the competition "Un'opera per il Castello" ("A work for the Castle"), dedicated to emerging artists and architects who create installations designed specifically for the spaces of Sant'Elmo. In this way the collection keeps growing and the castle remains a living place for contemporary art.
The castle also hosts temporary exhibitions, so we recommend checking what's on: you'll often find shows that explore a period or a group of artists from the collection in greater depth.
Getting there and when to go
To reach Castel Sant'Elmo, go up to the Vomero on one of the funiculars (Centrale, Chiaia or Montesanto) or take Metro Line 1 to the Vanvitelli stop; from there the castle is a few minutes' walk. The museum can be comfortably visited in a couple of hours and is an excellent choice in any season. Take the opportunity to climb the ramparts too: the view over the city is spectacular. Check opening times and tickets on the official website before you go.
Nearby
The museum is part of a wider visit to the hill, which we describe in Castel Sant'Elmo and the Certosa di San Martino. If you love contemporary art, Warhol's Vesuvius awaits you at Capodimonte, described in The Museum and Royal Park of Capodimonte, while for the most recent forms of expression on the city's streets read The murals of Naples. For a complete itinerary you'll find ideas in An art weekend in Naples and in our guide Naples and its surroundings.
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