In mid-October the small village of Cassano Irpino, in upper Irpinia, celebrates the chestnuts of its woods with three days of festivities in the old town. We suggest it as an autumn stop along the Calore valley, perhaps combined with nearby Montella.
The stalls serve roast chestnuts, soups and country dishes made with chestnuts, as well as sweets such as chestnut logs and tarts. The programme includes roving folk music in the streets and guided tours of the village and its springs, which have supplied the great Apulian aqueduct for over a century. Entry is free.
Our tip: arrive in the afternoon, take the guided walk in daylight and stay into the evening, when the chestnut roasters warm up the squares.