Three days on the Amalfi Coast are just right to see both its postcard side and its hidden one, made of footpaths, lemon groves and villages clinging to the rock. We travelled it on foot, by bus and by boat, and here is the itinerary we liked best, from west to east.
Day 1: the Path of the Gods and Positano
We set off early from Bomerano, part of Agerola, to walk the Path of the Gods: about three hours along the hillside, with the sea always below and views reaching Capri. The path ends at Nocelle, from where you go down to Positano by a long flight of steps or by local bus. All the details are in our guide to the Path of the Gods (in Italian).
The afternoon is for Positano: pastel-coloured houses, the church of Santa Maria Assunta with its majolica dome and the main beach. If you have time, continue to Praiano for the sunset.
Day 2: Furore, Amalfi and Atrani
In the morning we stop at the fjord of Furore, a cleft in the rock crossed by the coast road bridge, with the small fishermen's hamlet below.
Then on to Amalfi, the ancient Maritime Republic. The steps of the Cathedral of Saint Andrew and the Cloister of Paradise are worth the stop on their own. Walkers can climb the Valley of the Mills, where paper was once made, up to the Valle delle Ferriere nature reserve.
At the end of the day, a few minutes' walk takes you to Atrani and its cosy little square, one of the smallest towns in Italy.
Day 3: Ravello, Minori and the eastern coast
We go up to Ravello early in the morning, when the gardens are quieter. Villa Rufolo, linked to the memory of Richard Wagner, and Villa Cimbrone with its Terrace of Infinity are the two stops not to miss.
Then down to Minori, to visit the imperial-age Roman villa, and on to Maiori, with the longest beach on the coast. In the afternoon stop at Cetara, a fishing village famous for its anchovy colatura, and finish at Vietri sul Mare, among the ceramic workshops.
What to eat along the way
Don't leave the coast without tasting scialatielli with seafood and lemon desserts. The Amalfi Coast lemon is a PGI product, and the area has its own wine, Costa d'Amalfi DOC.
Getting there and when to go
The coast is reached from Salerno or Sorrento. The SS163 Amalfitana road is narrow and often busy, and at certain times traffic restrictions apply: we recommend regular buses and boat connections, which link Salerno, Amalfi and Positano in the warm season. The best times are spring and early autumn; for the Path of the Gods avoid the hot hours and check trail conditions. Always check bus, ferry and site timetables on official channels before leaving.
With an extra day, add Paestum and its temples. Discover more ideas in our luxury and romantic trips guides.
